Costa Rica Driving Guide

Ready for an epic road trip driving in Costa Rica? Renting a car is the best way to experience this beautiful country. But there are a few things you should know before you go.

So you’ve been wanting to visit for years, and are finally planning your own epic road trip to drive around Costa Rica!

For such a small country, Costa Rica is surprisingly mountainous with winding dirt roads and occasional river crossings, so my first time driving there was quite an adventure! Since then, I’ve visited the country many times, always preferring to rent a car.

Renting a car and self-driving Costa Rica on your own is the best way to experience this stunning country, as it truly gives you the freedom to stop at every waterfall, volcano, beach, and national park along the way.

Here are some important tips I learned about driving Costa Rica, so you’re ready to hit the road and explore the Rich Coast on a vacation you’ll never forget.

Driving In Costa Rica Guide (2023)

1. Should You Drive In Costa Rica?

Hey, if you love those big group bus tours, by all means, go book one. It’s a decent way to see Costa Rica if you don’t have a lot of time.

No planning, no driving, just sit back and let someone else do all the work!

But if you’re like me, you prefer the adventure of independent travel.

No set schedule or timetable — driving around Costa Rica with the freedom to stop anyplace cool you find along the way.

If that’s the kind of traveler you are, renting a car in Costa Rica is the way to go!

Yes, there is a public bus system in Costa Rica too, but it’s really only good for getting from one big town to another, and often the bus stops are located just outside of town, so you’ll also end up having to take a taxi. Not to mention that traveling by public bus is just a slower way to get around the country.

Just keep in mind that some of the back roads in Costa Rica can be very rough & muddy, and some local drivers don’t follow their own laws. With some practice though, you’ll gain confidence driving here!

Another nice thing we enjoyed about having a car was the ability to store things in the trunk, stopping off in Costa Rican towns with small travel backpacks rather than hauling luggage everywhere.

2. Where To Rent Your Car In Costa Rica

Some common car rental companies in Costa Rica include Enterprise, Sixt, Hertz, a local one called Adobe Rent-a-Car, and many more.

But the best site to book your car is Discover Cars. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Costa Rica.

We rented our car from San Jose Airport in Alajuela, and began our Costa Rican road trip from there.

San Jose Airport: Plan to pick up your car about 60 minutes after your flight arrives. When departing, try to be at the airport at least 3 1/2 hours before your flight leaves. Because returning your rental car and catching a shuttle back to the airport can take up to 30 minutes.

Liberia Airport: Plan to pick up your car about 30 minutes after your flight arrives. When departing, try to be at the airport at least 2 1/2 hours before your flight leaves. Again, because of the shuttle.

Rent A Car In Costa Rica

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

Check Latest Prices

3. Car Rental Insurance In Costa Rica

Some of the rumors about driving in Costa Rica are true, and the roads are VERY rough in some areas. Especially the back roads outside Costa Rica’s smaller towns. Don’t worry, I’ll share some tips for dealing with them below.

This is why I highly recommend getting full insurance coverage.

Typically, rental cars in Costa Rica come with a basic Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), but this isn’t exactly insurance, and only covers the car for up to $1000-3000 USD worth of damage.

This is the amount they hold on your credit card until you return the car in one piece. CDW typically does not include tire, cracked windshield, or undercarriage damage either.

While you can often save money booking your car with a good travel credit card that includes car rental insurance, you REALLY must read the fine print, because many people wrongly assume their card covers them in Costa Rica.

If you get in a wreck driving in Costa Rica, declined full coverage, and you suddenly learn your credit card doesn’t actually cover the damage — you’re screwed. I can’t tell you how many travel horror stories I’ve heard like this…

It’s why I usually pre-book full coverage online. It’s cheaper than at the counter — and then you won’t have to worry about accidents at all!

4. How Much Does In Cost To Rent A Car In Costa Rica?

Renting a car in Costa Rica is going to cost you around $25-$40 USD a day, depending on the type of car you get. Our 4-door sedan was about $25 per day. A four-wheel drive SUV will cost you more like $40-$70 USD per day.

A 4X4 campervan, or truck with a tent attached, is going to cost over $100 USD per day (however you can sleep in it too!)

I recommend renting a car with an actual trunk (no hatchbacks) to hide your luggage from prying eyes. It helps to prevent break-ins if thieves can’t see your stuff.

Gas Prices

Currently, gas costs about $4.75 USD per gallon ($1.25 per liter) in Costa Rica. Diesel cars will often save you some money on gas, and diesel fuel costs about $4.20 per gallon. It’s much more expensive than in the gas in the United States!

Automatic vs Manual

Automatic cars are more expensive to rent than manual cars (but manuals are more common in Costa Rica), and you must specify what type you want when booking. If you’ve never driven a manual car before, don’t start in Costa Rica! It’s safer to get an automatic.

One-Way Rentals

There’s an additional fee for one-way car rentals in Costa Rica, which can vary by company. For example, if you want to drop off the car in a different city than where you started from. But because the country is so small, you probably won’t need to do this.

5. Age Requirements For Renting A Car

The minimum age for driving in Costa Rica is between 21-25 years old, depending on the company you book a car with. They also might charge an additional fee (usually $10 a day) if you’re under 25 years old.

6. Things To Remember While Driving In Costa Rica

Driving laws in Costa Rica are similar to driving laws in any other country. However local drivers don’t always follow them. For example, drivers may not use turn signals or will run red lights if they think they can get away with it.

Speed Limits In Costa Rica

Speed limits in Costa Rica are quoted in kilometers per hour. The maximum speed on most highways is 120 km/h (about 74 miles per hour). On secondary roads, the limit is usually 60km/h (37 miles per hour), and around towns & cities it is 40km/h (25 miles per hour).

If you happen to get a speeding ticket, please let your car rental company know right away, as you’ll have to pay for it when you drop off the car at the end of your trip.

Road Signs In Costa Rica

The road signs in Costa Rica should be pretty self-explanatory, as they look similar to US road signs, just in Spanish. You can browse some common Costa Rican road signs here.

Road Conditions

Costa Rica’s highways are paved and in good condition, however the country is also covered in back roads. Lots of dirt roads, and many are not in great shape. Muddy, potholes, etc. If you plan on driving off the beaten path in Costa Rica, I highly recommend renting a four-wheel drive SUV. Some bridges are only single lane, requiring one car to wait for the other to cross before proceeding.

River Crossings

You can road trip around Costa Rica without ever having to cross a river, but there are also some back roads that pass through rivers. Especially during the wet/rainy season, and in the Nicoya Peninsula, Drake Bay and Osa Peninsula areas. If you’ve never crossed a river before, please watch someone else go first!

Put your vehicle into 4X4 mode, go slow, and pay attention to the route. Some rivers aren’t crossed directly, but require you to drive up or down stream before exiting. This can be due to hidden obstacles, depth, or simply the best entry/exit points.

7. International Driver’s License

No, you do not need an international driver’s license to drive in Costa Rica or rent a car there. Just bring your passport, credit card, and your driver’s license from your home country. So yes, you can drive in Costa Rica with a US driver’s license.

8. Extra Advice For Renting A Car & Driving In Costa Rica

• Lock your doors while driving in Costa Rica, and never leave valuables visible in your car.
• Pedestrians don’t really have right-of-way in Costa Rica. Meaning if you politely stop in the road to let someone cross, they’ll be confused, and the car behind you won’t expect it — which could cause an accident! This is similar in Mexico and other parts of Central America.
• Don’t book a car without reading the company reviews. You’ll find plenty of bad reviews for every company (people love to complain online), but try to pick one with the LEAST bad reviews.
• You may not always get the make/model/type of car you booked. If they give you a smaller car, or a manual when you asked for an automatic, be pushy and ask for an upgrade.
• Inspect your car thoroughly and record video on your smartphone pointing out damage before you leave. This is a backup if they attempt to charge you for damage that was already there. This is a common car rental scam in Costa Rica….
• Pay attention to if your Costa Rica rental car takes regular gas or diesel fuel, so you fill up with the correct type at gas stations.
• Use Google Maps on your smartphone for directions instead of renting a GPS device. Simply use your own hands-free car mount and a good international cell phone plan.

9. Accident & Breakdown Information

In an emergency, you can dial the Costa Rican Emergency Phone Number which is 911, just like in the United States. They have an English speaking line too.

However if your car simply breaks down, and no one is injured, its probably better to call your Costa Rican car rental company’s own emergency roadside assistance number located on the rental agreement.

Enjoy Your Costa Rica Road Trip!

Exploring the small villages, pristine beaches, jungle mountains, and national parks of Costa Rica in a rental car was definitely the right choice for us.

Self-drive road trips allow you to get off the beaten track to see things most people miss! ★

Rent A Car In Costa Rica

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

Check Latest Prices

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica

Surfing is unpredictable, and forces you out of your comfort zone. You only have a few seconds to decide if you’re going to commit to that wave quickly barreling down behind you.

If you guess wrong, or hesitate, the results might not be pleasant. But if you guess right… the natural high of riding the power of the ocean is pure bliss. An addiction that makes surfers take a beating & come back for more.

Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula reaches out from the northwest region of the country, separated from the mainland by the Gulf of Nicoya.

With a long coastline and many remote uncrowded beaches, it’s an excellent surfing and road trip destination. Especially because it’s a meteorological sweet spot for generating Pacific ocean swells.

Renting a sweet 4X4 expedition truck from Nomad America that included a rooftop tent for camping, I explored the peninsula driving through jungle rivers and over rough backcountry roads.

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2022

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance that covers COVID-19 too!

Click For Details

Nosara Costa Rica

My first stop in Nicoya was the small town of Nosara, where I spent a few days just getting back into the groove of surfing, as I hadn’t ridden waves in a while. Surfing is one of my favorite sports, but it’s a lot harder than it looks!

The town of Nosara has become a popular place for expats from the United States and Canada to settle down, claiming a small piece of paradise for themselves.

The surf is decent year round, and a large beach called Playa Guiones boasts plenty of waves for people of all skill levels. I spent 3 days surfing around Nosara, and seriously didn’t want to leave.

I can see why so many expats decide to move here. It’s exactly what you’d expect a lazy jungle surf town to be like. Monkeys in the trees, yoga classes, dirt roads, and a healthy-living vibe.

There are a few different surf schools and shops nearby, like Juan Surfo’s. They provide both board rentals & surf lessons.

Surfing Playa Guiones

Playa Guiones is particularly special because it’s such a large beach. At 4 miles long, you can walk along endlessly and take your pick from different surf spots, so it never feels super overcrowded.

The area is also a national refuge, which means developers can’t build on the beach itself. So from the water, looking back to shore, it just looks like a wall of jungle in front of you.

You can hang out in little homemade “surf-shacks” with roofs made of palm fronds, hiding from the sun to re-hydrate before heading back into the waves for more surfing.

Waves are pretty gentle at Guiones, so it’s a wonderful location for beginners who are learning to surf. It’s a nice wide sandy beach break… no rocks or coral reef to worry about crashing into.

Costa Rica’s 4X4 Coastal Road

After a few days of surfing around Nosara, I loaded up the truck and started driving South along the coast on Route 160. Pulling off down rough and muddy backroads to check out different beaches.

My mission was to drive a particularly rugged off-road track that hugs the coastline from Nosara to Santa Teressa. It can only be accomplished in a proper 4X4 truck, and it’s only possible during the dry season.

This is because there are 3 big rivers you must drive through on this route (Ora, Bongo, and Ario). Fjording rivers in a 4×4 truck is a lot of fun! But it can also be a little hazardous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

How To Drive Across A River

• Know where your vehicle’s “water line” is (maximum depth)
• Walk across the river first, to ensure it isn’t too deep
• Pay attention to the entry & exit points
• Shift the truck into 4×4 Low
• Drive slow and steady through the water, under 10 mph

If the water is too deep, it can flood into the cab, or even drown the engine (a snorkel helps prevent this). Strong currents can completely lift the vehicle off the ground, floating downriver until it reaches shallows again.

The route might not be as straightforward as you think either. The safest path could require driving upriver a bit before crossing, so it’s wise to watch someone else go first if possible.

Camping Along The Way

I love campervan road trips. The ability to stop on the side of a road, a parking area, or at a campground while you travel really gives you a lot of freedom as a photographer. Great for surfing remote breaks too!

The Toyota FJ Cruiser I rented from Nomad America comes equipped with a rooftop tent, off-road suspension & tires, cooking gear, hammocks, folding table & chairs, solar shower, retractable awning, and more.

Renting an expedition truck in Costa Rica isn’t super expensive, especially the smaller 4x4s which start at $55 a day. Plus, no need to spend money on hotels/hostels when you have a tent on your roof!

Split between a group of 2-4 people it’s a great deal, and a true off-the-beaten-path adventure in Costa Rica.

Surfing Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa is another expat surf town on the Coast Rican Pacific coast. It’s a bit more crowded than Nosara/Guiones, but still a great place to ride some waves.

While not nearly as big as the surf town mecca of Tamarindo in the North, Santa Teresa has been growing and is popular with backpackers. Proper hotels and B&Bs have sprung up too.

If you’re a surfer, or want to learn, it’s a fun place to hang out for a few days.

There are two main beaches in Santa Teresa, Playa Carmen and Playa Santa Teresa. Popular surf breaks in the area include Suck Rock and La Lora.

Costa Rica’s Surf Season

The rainy season on the Nicoya Peninsula is August – November, when many surf schools are closed. Early December is a great time to visit, as it’s not so crowded with tourists yet. After Christmas tourism starts to pick up, and clean consistent surf can be had from December – April.

How To Get There

Car

If you’re coming from San Jose, there are two main routes for visiting the Nicoya Peninsula. You can drive around the Gulf Of Nicoya on Route 18, which takes about 5 hours.

Or you can take the Punta Arenas Ferry across the water to Nicoya, and then drive North along the coast. The 4×4 coastal road from Nosara to Santa Teresa takes about 3 hours, provided you don’t get lost (which is easy to do).

Bus

There’s a daily bus to Nosara from San Jose at 5:30am departing from the intersection of Avenida 5 and Calles 14/16 (Alfaro Terminal). Another option is to take one of the more frequent buses to the Nicoya Peninsula, then change to another for Nosara. More details here.

Where To Stay In Nicoya

Renting a truck from Nomad America allowed me to camp for most of the trip, occasionally stopping at a guest house for a hot shower. However if camping isn’t for you, here are some other options:

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Mamma Rosa
I spent one night here to take advantage of AC, wifi, and a hot shower. It’s location is perfect, with a trail directly to the beach.

Check Prices / Read Reviews
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Salina Santa Teresa
This is a sweet looking hostel right next to the beach, quirky design. Here you’ll find Surfboard rentals, surf lessons, yoga and more.

Check Prices / Read Reviews
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Costa Rican Surfing Paradise

Basically road tripping down the coast of Nicoya Peninsula is an awesome surfing adventure, and won’t break the bank either. Especially if you team up with others to rent an expedition truck with a roof-top tent.

I honestly felt like I was was driving around Jurassic Park in that thing, waiting for a T-Rex to burst out of the jungle and chase me.

Bouncing around on rough Costa Rican back roads, powering through mud holes, and exploring every hidden beach I could find! ★

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READ MORE COSTA RICA TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on surfing in Costa Rica! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

• How Much Does Costa Rica Cost?
• Hiking Corcovado National Park
• Fairytale Magic At Rio Celeste Waterfall
• Tips For Visiting Monteverde Costa Rica

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Have any questions about surfing in Costa Rica? Are you planning a trip? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Golfito, Costa Rica

Treading carefully with rubber boots is what saved me. A venomous pitviper lay curled up and ready to strike, camouflaged along the muddy trail I was hiking.

Piedras Blancas National Park is tucked away in the South-West corner of Costa Rica. It protects rain-forest, beaches, and wildlife along the Golfo Dulce (or sweet gulf) — an inlet attached to the Pacific Ocean.

I was staying at Playa Nicuesa Lodge, a remote eco-friendly place hidden within the National Park itself and only accessible by boat.

The lodge is completely off the grid, powered by solar panels and a bio-diesel generator. I was pretty excited to sleep in the middle of a highly active and beautiful rainforest surrounded by nature for a few days.

Wildlife In Costa Rica

Behind the lodge there is a network of trails winding their way through the park. As I was here to photograph some wildlife, I geared up and headed into the wilderness on my own.

If you’ve never been hiking through a rainforest, you may not realize just how dark it can be under the canopy during the day.

Foliage here grows fast and thick in this tropical environment — blocking out most of the sunlight from above.

The darkness can make it difficult to see what’s on the trail in front of you…

Snakes Everywhere!

The Hog-Nosed Pitviper I almost stepped on was only the first of many snakes I ran across in Piedras Blancas National Park. While it may look intimidating, hiking with tall rubber jungle boots (provided by the lodge) will almost always protect you against getting bitten.

Unlike in the movies, snakes are usually scared of people too.

Unless you actually step on one, chances are they won’t attack. They’d much rather slither away or ignore you completely. But that doesn’t mean you should let your guard down.

The snake in my photo below is a Fer De Lance, Costa Rica’s most dangerous, responsible for up to 46% of snakebites in the country.

If not treated, venom from its bite is powerful enough to shut down kidneys, rot skin tissue, and cause bleeding from the eyes and mouth. One of the few snakes in the world that can kill a human.

Nature Walks After Dark

Often the best time to seek wildlife in Costa Rica is after the sun sets. Many animals living in a rainforest are more active at night.

Knowing this, nature guide (and former Amazing Race Latin America contestant) Manfred Céspedes took me on evening stroll to hunt for critters in the darkness.

What did we find? More snakes of course!

To search for wildlife at night, you need to keep quiet and scan the area with a flashlight. The beam will reflect off the eyes of any animals that might be hiding in the dark, betraying their location.

It’s how I spotted this large Boa wrapped around a branch.

Farming Chocolate

Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula used to be an important area for Cacao farming. Cacao seeds form the basic ingredient used to produce chocolate.

At one time the cacao beans were even used as currency.

However a blight of fungus destroyed a majority of Costa Rica’s cacao trees in the 1970’s.

Remains of old farms still exist in ruins though — the decrepit buildings now re-taken by the jungle. This particular abandoned shack provides temporary shelter for wild cats roaming the area, as well as a cozy home for bats!

Piedras Blancas National Park

Over the course of 2 days at Playa Nicuesa I certainly saw my share of wildlife in the reserve. This included frogs, snakes, bats, scarlet macaws, peccaries (wild pigs), Jesus Christ lizards, coatis, toucans, howler monkeys, and dolphins.

Falling asleep (and waking up) with the doors and windows to my room open, completely surrounded by the sounds of these animals and insects is always a fun experience.

With a net surrounding the bed, I didn’t have to worry about bugs, and could enjoy the music of the jungle.

Kayaking The Mangroves

One morning I went kayaking through the estuary and mangroves nearby. Tomas, a local who’s been living on the land here for over 60 years, took us by boat up through the mangroves, pointing out snakes and birds along the way.

He grew up hunting this wilderness for food, but these days he works as a guide protecting the animals while also teaching visitors.

We launched our kayaks up river and made our way back towards the ocean with the current, listening to the swamp as it burped up methane bubbles on either side.

Colorful crabs would scurry away into their mud burrows as we passed.

Reconnect With Nature

Back at the lodge I took a yoga class on the edge of the water as afternoon rains began. My instructor Molly tried to improve my flexibility and balance with stretching and breathing techniques while we listened to the sound of waves crashing on the beach.

The abundance of nature, secluded beaches, and pristine rainforest made me want to stay here for months, not days. It’s very peaceful and relaxing.

At night we walked out to the pier and watched glowing florescent blue bioluminescent algae materialize in the water around fish as they swam beneath our feet.

Lightning from far-away storms flashed across the sky in the distance.

Magic Of Costa Rica

Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula is one of the few locations I’ve traveled that absolutely astonished me with the sheer amount of beauty and diversity available in such a small area.

Witness fascinating animals in their natural habitat, get some exercise, and embrace the outdoors in a tropical setting. It really has it all.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time exploring Pedras Blancas National Park. Especially discovering all these cool snakes I’d never seen before! ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Tortuguero, Costa Rica

Rainforest covered mountains stretched out into the distance. My small single-engine plane began its descent towards a sliver of runway in the middle of all the green.

I was on my way to Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica. A remote area of wilderness only accessible by boat or aircraft. Despite its out-of-the-way location, it’s the country’s 3rd most visited park.

We landed, I grabbed my bag, and strolled over to a water-taxi waiting along the canal nearby. Waterways and canals weave their way throughout Tortuguero — making boats the main method of transportation here.

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2021

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance that covers COVID-19 too!

Click For Details

Visiting the Jungle

Our boat slowly puttered through Tortuguero Town. With colorful homes constructed right on the edge of the water, most residents can swim in their front yard. My destination was Evergreen Lodge, comfortable and environmentally friendly cabins located on the edge of the National Park.

There’s a network of pristine rainforest trails behind the property, allowing guests to look for wildlife. Which is exactly what I did as soon as I arrived.

The path was lined with ancient trees rising into the sky searching for water & sunlight while vines and other vegetation filled in any gaps. Parts of the trail include narrow suspension bridges that hang above tropical swampland.

Keep Your Eyes Peeled

It was on these twisting trails that I was lucky to spot one of my favorite creatures, a tiny Strawberry Poison Dart Frog. At only a few centimeters long, these frogs can be pretty difficult to find under thick jungle canopy that blocks the sunlight above.

However this particular one happened to jump from the trail into a pile of leaves as I approached, the sudden movement giving it away. I managed to get a few quick shots before it disappeared again into the underbrush.

Colorful dart frogs secreet toxins from their skin as a defense mechanism.

In fact the reason they’re called dart frogs is because indigenous groups would coat blowdarts with the poison for hunting. So don’t eat this strawberry…

Monkey Business

Tortuguero National Park is home to 3 species of monkeys, and I saw them all. Howler monkeys hoot & holler from the treetops like imaginary monsters from your worst nightmares. They work great as natural alarm clocks!

But in reality these animals aren’t as scary as they sound.

Spider monkeys and White-faced Capuchins also call the area home.

Every evening a large family of Capuchins would swing through the treetops around the cabins on the hunt for food. If you happen to be eating outside, and not paying attention, it’s possible to lose your meal! These furry critters are smart.

Touring the Canals

In the afternoon I joined local guides Michael & Eddie for a boat trip through the water canals that make up Tortuguero. As we stopped at a dock to pay the park entrance fee, a giant male green iguana could be seen on shore.

A few meters away from the iguana, a baby crocodile was sunning itself on a downed tree.

We weren’t even in the park yet and I was spotting animals all over the place!

Armed with a pair of Swarovski CL Pocket binoculars, I was able to easily spot colorful tropical birds like the Keel-Billed Toucan and endangered Green Macaw perched high in the trees along the edge of the water.

Animals Everywhere

What else did I spy on the 2 hour safari trip through Tortuguero? All kinds of birds, like the Snowy Egret, Bare-Throated Tiger Heron, and Anhinga. We found a few speckled Caimans (in the crocodile family) and a Black River Turtle too.

Along with all the wildlife, simply cruising slowly through the jungle canals listening to the animals was very peaceful and relaxing.

Back at the lodge I feel into a deep sleep as powerful evening rains poured down over my cabin. They don’t call it a rainforest for nothing!

Sea Turtle Surprise

The most popular reason to visit Tortuguero National Park is an army of Green Sea Turtles that lay their eggs on the black sand beaches each year. However most of the baby turtles hatch in September & October.

As this was early December, I was too late to witness babies running for the ocean. Or so I thought…

Before I caught my flight out in the morning, Henry from Evergreen asked if I’d like to join him to search for any delayed hatchlings. With his 16 years of wildlife guiding experience, we might just have a chance.

After an hour of searching old nests with him, we found some. A sea turtle can lay about 100 eggs in a “clutch”, and this particular nest had 3 stragglers. I watched them run awkwardly through the sand into waves as the morning sun rose.

A wonderful end to my Tortuguero wildlife experience in Costa Rica. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Costa Rica Photography

Costa Rica is a vibrant country full of incredible natural beauty like waterfalls, jungles, volcanoes, and wildlife. It provides many opportunities for stunning photography!

After exploring Costa Rica multiple times over the past 10-years, the country has seduced me with her charms. I secretly want to keep her all to myself… but that would be selfish!

So I’ve reluctantly decided to share her with you.

The photography opportunities in Costa Rica are fantastic, and once you see these photos you’ll know exactly why I fell in love with this fascinating Central American country.

From pristine cloud forests, remote beaches, exotic wildlife and giant volcanoes — Cost Rica is extremely diverse, with a little bit of everything for the adventurous traveler or photographer.

Below you’ll find travel photography from my adventures while driving around Costa Rica.

I hope my Costa Rica photography inspires you to visit this wonderful place. Pura Vida!

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2022

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance that covers COVID-19 too!

Click For Details

Corcovado National Park

Costa Rica’s largest park is also its most dazzling. In a country already overrun by lush greenery, the lowland tropical rain forests of Corcovado National Park is like the natural world turned up to eleven. National Geographic labelled the Osa Peninsula “the most biologically intense place on Earth in terms of biodiversity”.

While you used to be able to explore it without a guide, that’s no longer the case since 2014. The beaches are stunningly beautiful and remote, the forests rustle with life – and rivers churn with crocodiles, caimans and even sharks. Exploring this landscape is quite an adventure!

Monteverde Cloud Forest

Monteverde (“Green Mountain”) is one of a number of cloud forests you can enjoy in Costa Rica. They’re eerie, foggy places (and near-permanently blanketed in cloud, hence the name), with every branch and trunk thickly carpeted in moss and constantly dripping with water.

You’ll find Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve in the northwest of Costa Rica, along the edge of the Tilaran mountain chain, and it’s well worth a trip. Keep an eye open for a flash of the piercing blue-green plumage of the Queztal, a bird once revered as a god by the Aztecs.

Volcanoes Of Costa Rica

Costa Rica’s mountainsides are alive in more ways than one. Due to its position along the Ring Of Fire, the country is dotted with hundreds of extinct volcanoes – and a few that are very much active. The Central Volcanic Range is dominated by Poas (above), Barva, Irazu, and Turrialba.

Barva last erupted 8,000 years ago, Irazu in 1994, Turrialba in 2016 – and Poas is currently closed for visitors because it exploded in April 2017. So this whole landscape is still under construction — the Earth sure takes it’s time!

Massive Crocodiles

Nope, that’s not a log. Crocodiles are a common sight along the banks of Costa Rica’s coastal rivers, and croc attacks on humans do happen from time to time. One of the best (and safest) places to spot these prehistoric animals is from a bridge over the Tarcoles River.

However please resist the temptation to throw food to them – illegal crocodile feeding is cited as the main reason for crocs encroaching on human territory (or vice versa, depending on how you see things).

Beautiful Costa Rica Beaches

If a country’s wealth is counted in beaches, Costa Rica is very well-named. Every tropical cliche is here – glowing golden-white sand, palm trees swaying in the sea breeze, warm azure water lapping at your ankles.

There’s Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean side, there’s Corcovado’s rugged Pacific shoreline, and there’s another 300 ridiculously beautiful beaches to explore on both sides of the country. Many of these beaches offer great surfing opportunities too! The remote beaches along Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula were some of my favorites.

Colorful Flora In Costa Rica

There’s a reason this country has the highest percentage of protected areas in the world. They’re protecting 9000 species of flowering plants and 800 species of fern – more varieties and shades of color than can be found in the whole of the United States, in an area smaller than Kansas.

You’ll find the densest biodiversity in its six types of forest: tropical rainforest (more on that below), cloud forest (see Monteverde, above), tropical dry forest, mangroves, riparian (hugging the banks of waterways) and lowland rainforests, where Costa Rica’s tallest trees can be found.

Outdoor Activities

With all the stunning views on offer, you’d assume Costa Rica is a great place to camp and hike, and you’d be right – with a few caveats. Don’t expect to be able to turn up and camp anywhere, as many protected beaches often regulate or simply prohibit camping. The same goes for off-trail walking.

Planning ahead and relying on local advice is a must. Beyond that, be prepared for all weather conditions including torrential rain, particularly if you’re arriving in the winter months. As you can see, I went for the “keep off the ground” option – always a good move to avoid jungle creatures who like to crawl (or slither) down there…

Costa Rican Rain Forests

These aren’t like forests you’ve ever seen. The combination of extremely tall trees and year-round heavy rainfall and/or cloud cover means that Costa Rica’s rainforests provide an unbroken protective canopy for birds, animals and plants that don’t require a lot of sunlight.

Worldwide, tropical rainforests contain over two-thirds of animal & plant species on the planet – and over 4% can be found right here in Costa Rica. Take a walking guide when you go – not just to avoid getting lost, but because he or she will explain what you’re looking at, so you don’t miss a single marvelous thing.

A Bird Watching Paradise

Hummingbirds flit from flower to flower, even in the urbanized Central Valley. Seventeen species of parrot, including the dazzling Scarlet Macaw, chatter from the topmost branches. Long-legged herons and shearwaters stalk the shoreline.

There are over 900 species of bird in Costa Rica (as much as in the entire United States) – and a lot of the tourist industry is geared up for both casual and serious birdwatching. Your best bet is the Osa Peninsula, home of the Corcovado National Park, which contains 350 varieties alone.

Rare Endangered Jungle Creatures

Looking like low-budget cross between a pig and an elephant, the Baird’s Tapir (above) is a herbivore, and one of just five species of tapir in the world. Its trunk – more correctly its proboscis – is highly flexible, allowing it to grab low foliage and explore interesting smells high in the air.

It’s a weird-looking creature – but in this biodiversity-mad country, weirdness is the norm. From the self-explanatory Strawberry Poison Dart Frog to the gold silk threads of the Golden Orb Weaver, from apathetic sloths to mini-leopards called ocelots, Costa Rica definitely has its own rulebook for fauna. Expect the unexpected.

Adventure Activities

I’m a huge fan of Costa Rica’s whitewater rafting – but it’s far from the only adventure travel activity on offer. In some of the National Parks you’ll find zip-lining (as part of canopy tours), calmer kayak or canoe trips, or even rapelling down cliffs & waterfalls.

Horseback riding is a great way to go sightseeing, both in the jungle or on the beaches. Costa Rica is well known for it’s great surfing, kitesurfing and windsurfing too. Underwater activities are also fantastic, with plenty of snorkeling and scuba diving opportunities. Cocos Island has some awesome hammerhead shark diving!

Bio-diverse Costa Rican Wildlife

If you’re the type to jot down every time you see a new animal or bird, you’re going to need a bigger notebook for Costa Rica. Much bigger. The wilds contain over 500,000 species, formed by geography – as part of the land-bridge between North America and South America, this is where the species of two worlds intermingled for millions of years.

This huge biodiversity is fueled by twelve very distinct climatic zones. It’s the research and development wing of the natural world – and most of the prototypes are still alive and well (yet threatened), making it the most biodiverse country on the planet.

Magical Waterfalls In Costa Rica

If you love beautiful waterfalls, Costa Rica is a waterfall hunter’s paradise. Some of my favorite are the towering 300 foot tall cascades of Bajos del Toro, and the unreal-looking turquoise blue pools at Rio Celeste Waterfall. The wet jungle landscapes provide the perfect backdrop for some epic waterfalls.

If you’re more adventurous, some even have rope swings and jumping platforms! Just make sure to ask (or watch) locals to ensure the pools below are deep enough to jump into. Shallow pools and strong currents can be a real danger at some waterfalls. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Costa Rica Travel guide

Is it possible to travel Costa Rica on a budget? Learn how to plan your visit with my Costa Rica travel guide — featuring travel tips, costs, things to do, where to stay, and more.

Named “The Rich Coast” (Spanish: Costa Rica) by Spanish conquistadors, Costa Rica is one of the planet’s most biologically diverse places.

From stunning beaches and incredible rain-forests to the charm of small towns nestled between volcanoes, Costa Rica is a nature lover’s paradise.

In this article I’ll share my favorite Costa Rican surf beaches, wildlife opportunities, the best waterfalls to explore, and of course, give you tips on what kind food you need to try!

My Costa Rica travel guide is completely free! I’ve worked hard putting it together for you. If you find it useful, please use my affiliate links when you book hotels, rental cars or activities. I’ll get paid a small commission, at no extra cost to you!

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2022

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance that covers COVID-19 too!

Click For Details

Costa Rica Budget Travel Guide

Everywhere I traveled in Central America, I kept hearing the same thing. “Skip Costa Rica” they said. “It’s expensive and touristy”. But one lesson I’ve learned in my travels is to never believe everything you hear from others.

Costa Rica surprised me in a good way. Sure, there were plenty of expensive tourist-friendly types of activities that other backpackers warned me about. For example: I’ve never seen so many advertisements for zip-lining!

But I soon found out there are a variety of ways to experience the best of the country even on a backpacker’s budget.

You just need to dig below the surface a bit.

Planning A Trip To Costa Rica

While knowledge of Spanish will obviously be a huge benefit, it’s not absolutely needed to travel in Costa Rica. I was initially a bit worried about my lack of Spanish when I visited for the first time, and surely it was frustrating to communicate, but it wasn’t impossible.

I carried a small Spanish phrasebook that covered the basics which worked fine. These days my basic grasp of Spanish is all I need to get around and make myself understood for simple situations.

For the most part, the people I’ve met here in Costa Rica were all incredibly friendly, hard-working, patient and generous individuals.

Complete strangers frequently offered to help me with directions, interpret bus announcements, or take me out for drinks and show me around.

Example Costa Rica Travel Budget

TOTAL DAYS = 34

TOTAL SPENT = $1,100 USD

DAILY AVERAGE = $32 USD

Please use these numbers as general guidelines only. Remember, everyone travels differently. Your personal travel budget in Costa Rica may vary.

Costa Rica may be more expensive than some other Central American countries, but you can certainly experience the country on a backpacker’s budget if you take the time to investigate low-cost sleeping options like camping, hostels and small locally-owned guest houses.

Budget travelers can survive on around $30 – $50 USD per day.

Costa Rica’s unit of currency is the Colon (520 – 550 colones / $1 USD).

While US dollars are widely accepted, changing your currency to colones is recommended to avoid overpaying for things in dollars.

Where To Stay Costa Rica

Costa Rica offers a wide range of accommodation, so everyone can find a perfect place to stay. Prices of accommodation vary depending of the region (prices are highest in well-established tourist towns such as San Jose, Manuel Antonio, Arenal and Tamarindo) or time of the year.

Here are some examples to help you plan according to your budget.

• Backpacker Hostels: $9 – $18 per night
• Guest Houses: $24 – $40 per night
• Mid-Range Hotels: $50 – $75 per night
• Resorts & Nice Hotels: $100 – $200 per night

Local Costa Rican Food: What To Eat!

Rice and beans are the foundation of most low-cost Costa Rican meals. If you never get sick of eating it over and over again, this will help you save on food.

You can buy a hearty plate of beef, pinto, & fried plantains for about $3 at small local establishments. Yuca (also known as cassava) is another inexpensive starchy root vegetable that is served frequently.

A great money-saving option that might give you insight into the local culture is sodas – local family run restaurants that serve typical Costa Rican cuisine for as little as $5 – $8 for a gigantic plate of food.

They’re a bargain compared to restaurants that cater to tourists, so you’ll definitely want to follow locals to the busiest spots if you’re on a budget.

If you want something a little fancier, meals at the best restaurants begin at around $20 USD. Most restaurants already include a 10% gratuity fee, so there’s no need to tip more.

Transportation In Costa Rica

Most people get to Costa Rica after flying into Juan Santamaria Airport just outside the capital city of San Jose. Search for the cheapest flights to San Jose Costa Rica on Skyscanner.com. From the airport, you can book a private shuttle or take the public bus or taxi to your hotel.

Rental Car

The best site to book your car is with Discover Cars. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car and drive in Costa Rica.

Renting a car offers the best flexibility to explore more remote and less touristy spots in the country. It’s my favorite way to get around!

By Bus

The main ways to get around in Costa Rica are by public bus, rental car, taxis, shuttle minivan or small planes. Public buses are the cheapest option, but they aren’t always convenient.

While the buses aren’t luxurious, the ride is definitely doable. You can expect to pay around $3 to go from one town to the next or to up to $20 USD to travel across the entire country.

Shuttle buses cost about $40 – $80 USD per person from one town to another.

Flying Within Costa Rica

If you’re short on time and willing to spend some extra money you may want to travel using small domestic planes from local airlines NatureAir and Sansa. You can get a flight starting around $30 by booking in advance.

Alternatively, there are many multi-day and day tours in Costa Rica that can drive you from your hotel to the most famous attractions.

Rent A Car In Costa Rica

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

Check Latest Prices

Visa Requirements

Citizens of the United States and most European nations don’t need a visa to visit Costa Rica unless the length of your stay exceeds 90 days. Visitors must pay a Costa Rican departure tax of $29 when leaving the country.

What To Do In Costa Rica

Costa Rica has plenty of less-traveled towns and national parks that offer travelers numerous adrenaline-fueled or wilderness activities – and they won’t break the bank either.

The country’s system of national parks and reserves protects approximately 25% of the country, one of the highest in the world! Here are some examples of just a few of the cool things you can do in Costa Rica:

Tortuguero National Park

Ever dreamed of seeing sea turtles? Tortugero National Park is the place to go because endangered green turtles are breeding on the beach here. Tortugero is also home to many birds, crocodiles, monkeys, sloths, and manatees, so if you’re a fan of the jungle you’ll love it! Boat or kayak tours through the jungle will cost you between $40 – $60.

Monteverde Cloud Forest

Monteverde is one of Costa Rica’s most popular natural parks with a lot of activities, such as walking through the tree canopy, zip lining ($50 – $90) over the forest, coffee plantation tours ($10 – $30) or hiking and wildlife spotting. The park is gorgeous and shouldn’t be missed. It’s easy to hike Monteverde on your own and save money.

Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is a laid back Caribbean beach town boasting beautiful beaches, lush jungle, and plenty of good restaurants and nightlife. It’s also a decent surfing destination. Chill out on one of the stunning beaches like Playa Negra or Playa Punta Uva, then head down to Cahuita National Park for a little hiking & wildlife spotting.

Arenal Volcano (La Fortuna)

Costa Rica is home to many active volcanoes with Arenal being the most visited one. Volcano hiking is a must, but unfortunately, you can’t see lava oozing out of the volcano anymore. There is also whitewater rafting ($70 – $130), relaxing hot springs, or walking through the treetops on suspension bridges ($60 – $80).

Playa Tamarindo

Lively Tamarindo is a hyped-up surfing and water-sports beach with wild nightlife. Most visitors come here to surf and learn Spanish. The beach is gorgeous and shouldn’t disappoint you.

Corcovado National Park

Corcovado is for adventure lovers, where you can hike through the jungle searching for unique Costa Rican wildlife like tapirs, toucans, and pumas. The largest of Costa Rica’s parks, it covers one-third of the Osa Pensinsula. While you can’t hike the park on your own anymore, it’s possible to hire a local guide to show you the way.

Budget Travel Tips For Costa Rica

If you’re on a strict budget in Costa Rica, consider bringing your own tent for camping, instead of paying for a bed every single night. Campsites in Costa Rica are cheap (about $5) and the landscapes are often gorgeous.

You could also look into homestay style lodging, as locals are starting to open up their homes to travelers in an effort to make a little extra money.

Packing Tips For Costa Rica

So, you’re getting ready for your trip to Costa Rica, but you’re not sure what to pack? Here are some tips for things to bring with you on your journey.

• Bring a filtered water bottle to cut down on plastic waste, and save money too!
• Make sure you have a comfortable travel backpack or a sturdy travel suitcase.
• Costa Rica uses US-style outlets. Traveling from Europe? You’ll want a good universal travel plug.
• Don’t forget my favorite travel accessory, packing cubes to keep you organized.
• I recommend packing a lightweight rain jacket, as the country gets a lot of rain.

Off The Beaten Path

For an off-the-beaten path experience in Costa Rica you might want to check out Cocos Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site located 300 miles southwest from the Pacific coast. Cocos is part of the same chain of underwater volcanoes as the Galápagos Islands and activities include scuba diving with dolphins, hammerhead sharks, giant rays, or exploring over 200 waterfalls.

Best Time To Visit Costa Rica

Costa Rica is rainy pretty much all year round, so make sure to bring a light rain jacket or poncho no matter when you’re planning to visit.

December through April is generally considered the dry season, but this is also high-season and the most expensive time to visit, so keep that in mind if you’re on a budget.

However, visiting during the rainy season between May and November is a wonderful way to experience Costa Rica’s best nature reserves without large crowds – if you don’t mind occasional wet hiking conditions.

The busiest times to travel to Costa Rica are during Christmas break, as well as the week leading up to Easter Sunday (also known as Semana Santa). It’s also the least economical time to travel, as accommodation prices are high.

Challenges In Costa Rica

San Jose isn’t the safest city in the world, and taxi scams are rampant (especially the “broken meter” scam). Some national parks, such as Manuel Antonio, can be flooded with tourists at peak times/seasons.

Keep in mind that during the rainy season many unpaved roads could be impassable for regular cars, making getting to remote places more difficult.

Internet & Cell Phone Service

If you have an unlocked cell phone, you can purchase a local Costa Rican SIM card and prepaid data package with 4G coverage/internet. The airports in San Jose and Liberia both have cell service booths from the country’s largest carriers — Kolbi and Movistar.

Suggested Books & Movies

Articles & Experiences From Costa Rica

Planning to travel to Costa Rica soon? Browse all my blog posts about Costa Rica for additional ideas & tips to help you plan an unforgettable vacation.

Surfing Road Trip In Costa Rica

Exploring Monteverde Cloud Forest

Enjoy Your Trip To Costa Rica!

Despite what you’ll hear about Costa Rica being expensive, you can certainly experience the country on a backpacker’s budget if you use low-cost sleeping options like camping, hostels, and small guest houses.

Spend a few weeks exploring the diverse biology, mountains, beaches, and rain-forests of Costa Rica and I promise you won’t be disappointed! ★

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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Turrialba, Costa Rica

National Geographic Magazine rated Costa Rica’s Rio Pacuare as one of the top 5 best whitewater rafting spots in the world. Riding the river’s class IV rapids was a wild experience!

The town of Turrialba is well know for it’s scenic landscape and fast-moving rivers.

In fact, the World Rafting Championships were held here in October 2011.

My good friend Abby and I love to play on rivers. So we wanted to experience some of the world-class rafting that Costa Rica is known for and grabbed a local bus into town for a few days.

Tico’s River Adventures

There are a lot of large rafting companies running trips down the Rio Pacuare, as it’s a popular tourist attraction. I’m not a huge fan of giant tour companies.

Most are just profit-machines, churning through people as fast as they possibly can. It usually makes for a crappy, overpriced and rushed customer experience.

Luckily I found a small, local, family run operation called Tico’s River Adventures.

Roberto, the energetic & friendly owner, picked us up outside our hostel Spanish By The River in Turrialba. We met the rest of our rafting team at his home.

Rafting the Pacuare River

First we had a nice scenic road-trip through the Costa Rican countryside before we arrived at the mighty Pacuare. Our rafts were waiting for us on the river’s edge.

While gearing up with lifejackets, helmets, and paddles, our guide Jeovany gave us a quick safety briefing. Before we could run the big class IV rapids we’d need to practice pulling each other out of the water.

“I can’t promise anything” was Jeovany’s response when I asked if the rafts often tipped over…

Our rescue practice consisted of jumping into the cold murky-brown water while 1 or 2 others would grab the “victim” by their lifejacket and haul them back on board. It’s harder than it looks to get back in, even with someone else’s help! ;)

Wild Waterwater Ride

The first section of rapids came upon us immediately, and it never slowed down much after that. This whitewater roller-coaster had us bouncing all over the place as our raft plunged down through 11 different class III & IV sections with names like:

• Doble Piso (Double Floor)
• Rodeo
• Pele el Ojo (Peel the Eye)
• Dos Montañas (Two Mountains)
• Roca Magentica (Magnetic Rock)
• Graduacion (Graduation)

Suddenly without warning we were pinned backwards on a boulder, getting slammed with the raw power of the whitewater. It’s a good thing we practiced our rescues earlier!

The whole raft was about to flip us into the swirling cauldron of water… but finally at the last second we managed to break ourselves free before the situation got ugly.

Now completely soaked and high on adrenaline – it took some effort to slow down & appreciate the stunning scenery around us. Thick jungle on both sides, steep canyon waterfalls, and brightly colored Blue Morpho butterflies fluttering past.

Jumping Into The River

After more intense whitewater action we stopped to take a break on the bank of the river and chow down on a large lunch consisting of sandwiches, salad, and cookies. Returning to the water once again, the raft gained speed as we floated into a narrow section of canyon.

Letting a few other rafting groups pass us, we were able to jump out to go swimming and climb up a 10-20 foot cliff to dive in and cool off.

Our guide pointed out a group of local indigenous kids playing by the water’s edge. The Chirripó indians who live in this part of the forest use a cable to cross the river overhead in a metal basket.

More swimming kids greeted us at the end of our day-long 18 mile river adventure, where we all jumped out to finally relax and order a much-needed beer at the riverside bar.

While I’m certainly no rafting expert, after my experience on the Pacuare I do believe National Geographic had it right.

What a great workout too! My arms were sore for days… ★

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READ MORE COSTA RICA TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on Whitewater Rafting in Costa Rica! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

• Surfing & Camping The Nicoya Peninnsula
• Hiking Corcovado National Park
• Fairytale Magic At Rio Celeste Waterfall
• Tips For Visiting Monteverde Costa Rica

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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Puerto Jimenez, Costa Rica

Corcovado National Park is a remote environmental reserve in Coast Rica with great hiking past deserted beaches, waterfalls, pristine rainforest, and plenty of wildlife.

UPDATE: The rules changed in 2014, and unfortunately you can no longer hike Corcovado National Park alone. Visitors must be accompanied by a guide.

Costa Rica has many different & beautiful National Parks located around the country. Road tripping from park to park while driving through the country is a great way to spend your trip.

While Corcovado isn’t the easiest national park to visit, it’s certainly been my favorite so far.

There is no road access to the park’s boundaries. You either have to hike in, arrive by boat or fly in on a small bush plane.

I opted for the most exhausting and least expensive option. My own two feet!

A physical challenge for sure — but it turned out to be a wonderful choice. After 4 days of solo-trekking through Corcovado, I was able to meet a wide variety of wild animals I’d never seen before.

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2022

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance that covers COVID-19 too!

Click For Details

Corcovado National Park

My journey into Corcovado began in the village of Puerto Jimenez. Camping in the reserve is only allowed at ranger stations, and the few spots available can be booked up for weeks in advance.

After securing the proper documents for entry, I was forced to wait around town for 5 days before I could begin my adventure into Corcovado as all the camping spots were full.

A small price to pay for what I was about to experience.

When it was time to leave, I jumped into the back of a livestock truck filled with local families for a bumpy 3 hour drive over a rutted jungle road towards the village of Carate.

Hiking Along The Beach

Once I arrived at Carate I re-checked my gear, food, water, and set out for the first day of hiking on a beach through pouring rain. Arriving the La Leona Ranger Station park entrance about an hour later, the storm continued to pound down as I set up camp.

A wet afternoon was spent wandering around nearby trails in the rain watching spider monkeys get angry at me, gangs of scarlet macaws flying overhead, a toucan, and some frogs.

There’s something special about hiking under the rainforest in pouring rain!

Halloween Crabs & Coatis

After a comfortable night’s sleep in my camping hammock, I rose before sunrise on the second day to prepare for the long trek ahead. A 9 hour hike over secluded beaches and through winding rainforest trails to the Sirena ranger station.

Right away more animals came out to greet me on my travels. The first was a large family of about 20 Coatis digging for a delicious breakfast of Halloween Crabs.

While those colorful crabs looked kinda tasty, I had a long trip ahead of me and couldn’t join them. But the sky was finally clear and I was off to a great start.

Wild Animals Everywhere!

As the sun rose higher, Spider Monkey families continued to angrily squawk at me while shaking the trees & branches over my head. I eventually spotted some White Faced Capuchin monkeys too. They were not nearly as pissed-off with my presence…

Spider monkeys need to take some anger management classes.

Hiking further into the jungle, a brown snake of some kind darted out from under the leaves near my feet. Luckily it wasn’t in a striking kind-of mood!

The dark & humid rainforest trail eventually led back to the beach where the sun proceeded to relentlessly beat me into submission. Trekking for miles over soft sand under the burning sun with a pack full of food, water, camping, and camera gear is pretty exhausting…

I secretly hoped the rain would come back!

Sections of beach were absolutely covered in hermit crabs, making it look alive. Beautiful groups of Scarlet Macaws were having conversations with each other as they flew low over my head.

Alone In The Wilderness

Eventually I stopped for lunch. Resting under the shade of a large palm tree, I went for a quick swim in the pounding waves. A cold waterfall back near the edge of the trees served as my fresh-water shower.

I could get used to this.

The rest of the trip was spent crossing rivers, wading through tide-pools, losing the trail, running after Jesus Christ Lizards, climbing palm trees, and having a blast. Finally after a long & exhausting (but scenic) 9 hour day on the trail, I arrived at Sirena Ranger Station in the heart of the reserve.

Throughout the hike I hadn’t seen a single person until I set up camp and made dinner with 4 others on a platform at Sirena. Howler monkeys roared at us from the trees in the twilight as I quickly fell soundly asleep.

Poaching In Corcovado

The morning of the 3rd day I rose and prepared a hardy breakfast of canned tuna and refried beans wrapped in tortillas. Yum! Refreshed and ready to explore Corcovado’s network of trails, I marched into the dense jungle yet again.

While shooting images of giant vine-entangled trees along the muddy banks of the Rio Claro, I was surprised when a group of armed local men came trudging by. I said hello as they took off their boots and began to cross the river.

Only then did I notice that two of the men were in handcuffs!

Unfortunately poaching & illegal gold mining in Corcovado is a constant problem. The park rangers had arrested 2 young men and were leading them out of the forest. It was comforting to see that Costa Rica’s laws were being enforced to protect the area.

Crocodiles & Sharks

There are several river crossings on the way to Sirena, and they can be dangerous to cross at high tide. Not only can the water be up to your neck, but 12 foot (4m) long Crocodiles and aggressive Bull Sharks are often found in the rivers feeding on schools of fish.

This is why proper timing of your hike with tidal charts is so important, as I was about to find out.

I decided to follow a trail that led me to the Rio Sirena. The tide was starting to rise, but there seemed to be enough time to cross it, explore the other side for a bit, then get back before the river monsters came out to feed.

So after removing my boots and finding a tree branch to help support me in the deep water, I started across.

Suddenly a pair of eyes broke the surface in front of my legs!

River Crossing Danger

A large Crocodile was staring me down less than 3 feet (1m) away. After freezing for a second not sure what to do, I slowly backed out of the water, pulled out my camera, and took a photo.

Unfortunately my river crossing attempt had been canceled.

I waited for high-tide to see if I could spot some bull sharks swimming into the mouth of the river looking for fish. It wasn’t long before I saw fins darting over the water in the area I had been planning to cross!

What the #%@$ is That!?

The sun had started to set, which meant it was time to head back to the ranger station for the night. Secretly hoping to see a Puma or Jaguar before I left the next day, my senses were on high-alert.

Without warning something came crashing through the jungle behind me.
I turned just in time to see a giant beast disappear towards the beach…

Running back out the way I came, I found the strange animal eating on the edge of the sand. It looked like a crazy combination of pig, donkey, and anteater rolled into one.

Baird’s Tapir

The animal is called a Tapir, and I was surprised at how big it was. At almost 4 feet tall, and at least 6 feet long, it’s the largest land mammal in Central America.

It’s also in danger of extinction due to hunting & loss of habitat.

I watched this guy munch on leaves for a while, and soon it wandered right up next to me. It’s snout moves around independently like an elephant’s trunk, which looks quite funny up close.

I think he was trying to chat with me. Another new rainforest animal friend!

Amazing Corcovado!

Finally on the 4th day it was time to part with the animals and return to civilization. But there were still plenty of things to see along the trip back. This is a complete list of all the animals I saw after 4 fun days of trekking through Corcovado National Park:

• Coati
• Spider Monkey
• White-Faced Capuchin Monkey
• Squirrel Monkey
• Mantled Howler Monkey
• Bull Shark
• American Crocodile
• Northern Tamandua Anteater
• Tayra
• Collared Peccary
• Scarlet Macaw
• Boa Constrictor
• Blue Morpho Butterfly
• Pale-Billed Woodpecker
• Toucan
• Bare-Throated Tiger Heron
• Jesus Christ Lizard
• Halloween Crab
• Hermit Crab

Not included in the list are other frogs, snakes, fish and birds that I couldn’t identify.

After an 7 hour trek back to the village of Carate, I greedily slurped down a few tasty beers and fired-up my last Nicaraguan cigar while waiting for the dreaded 3 hour truck-ride-from-hell back into town.

Making new friends with the rainforest animals in Corcovado National Park was definitely a unique backpacking experience that I will not soon forget. ★

UPDATE: The rules changed in 2014, and unfortunately you can no longer hike Corcovado alone. Visitors must be accompanied by a professional guide.

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Guatuso, Costa Rica

Hidden within the cloud forests of Costa Rica’s Tenorio National Park, the magnificent bright blue Rio Celeste Waterfall will take your breath away!

After doing some of the more typical tourist activities in Costa Rica like visiting Monteverde Cloud Forest and whitewater rafting in Turrialba, I wanted to find an activity that was a little more off the beaten path.

I heard a rumor about a secret waterfall located in the North of the country, and decided it would be worth checking out. It was 5 hours by bus from San Jose to reach the town of Guatuso on the Eastern edge of the reserve.

That was followed by an hour long ride in a local bus filled with little old ladies who stared at me the whole way.

Once at the tiny village of Rio Celeste, it’s a 2 mile hike up the steep dirt road leading into Volcano Tenorio National Park.

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2021

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

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Camping In The Cloud Forest

After half a day of travel, drenched in sweat & ready to pass out, I finally made my way into the entrance of the park and paid $4 to hang my camping hammock in the trees. Access to bathrooms & showers was included, and they even had a small restaurant.

Summertime is rainy season in Costa Rica, and the sky often opens up in the afternoons. Luckily I had my hammock set up before the daily deluge began.

Although I did scare off at least 5 snakes in the process.

The next few hours were spent lazily swinging from my dry cocoon while reading a book and listening to the family of howler monkeys screaming directly above me.

Finally I threw in some earplugs and fell asleep.

Hiking To Rio Celeste

The next morning it was time to rise with the sun and began a journey into the forest in search for the famed waterfall. The 45 minute hike sent me through a scenic canopy of trees alive with curious white-faced monkeys, colorful red poison dart frogs, singing birds, and fluttering blue morpho butterflies.

Not a bad way to start the day.

But the best was yet to come.

I heard the roar of the waterfall before I saw it. Slipping and sliding down the muddy trail I rounded a bend and suddenly stopped cold…

Was This For Real?

I couldn’t believe my eyes. It looked like something out of a fairytale story. A powerful river came crashing 60 feet down from the trees above into a dazzling pool of turquoise blue water. It created a cold mist that floated through the air around me.

Rarely does my mouth drop open dumbfounded at the beauty of a place!

Standing alone in the middle of an emerald green forest transfixed by this beautiful bright blue wonder of nature, I had another one of those special surreal moments that all travelers long for.

Swimming At Rio Celeste

I couldn’t wait to take a dip in that cold water! It felt great after my early morning hike. The intense color of the pool is created by volcanic minerals in rocks underneath.

The rest of my day was spent climbing rocks and playing in the vibrant blue liquid. There is a pretty strong current at the base of the waterfall that pushes you away, so it’s impossible to swim too close to the powerful cascade of water.

A few other people stopped by the falls that day, but for the most part I had this magical place all to myself. My adventure was complete with a dip in natural hot springs further up the trail.

While it’s definitely not the easiest place to visit without a car, a trip to Costa Rica’s Rio Celeste waterfall is a fantastic travel experience. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Cartago, Costa Rica

After stranding ourselves on top of Costa Rica’s Volcano Irazu, we needed to find a way back down the mountain to catch a bus to San Jose.

We took a bus from Cartago most of the way up the volcano, then hopped in a jeep with a local guy to get to the top.

Volcano Irazu is not like other volcanoes I’ve visited along my journey. Even though it’s the highest volcano in Costa Rica, there is a road that goes right to the top. This makes it easy to visit if you have a car.

The top of the volcano is often covered with a thick layer of clouds, but luckily we had a short window of time when Irazu’s famous blue/green crater lake revealed itself.

Hitchhiking In Costa Rica

Because there were still a lot of trucks in the parking lot at the top of the volcano, we decided hitchhiking back would be a fun way to see the countryside. I’ve hitchhiked few times throughout Central America – in Mexico, Guatemala, and Nicaragua.

But this was going to be Abby’s very first hitchhiking adventure. Ever. I could tell she was a bit nervous but excited at the same time. I was excited for her! One of my favorite parts of travel is embracing new experiences.

Hitchhiking often gets a bad rap. Unfortunately, the people who are quick to warn about its dangers have zero experience themselves. Talk to anyone who’s actually done it, and you’ll get quite a different opinion.

Finding A Ride

The first 2 vehicles I approached said no. Well, that’s not entirely correct. They made up lame excuses as to why they couldn’t take us. One was a bus full of fellow gringos! The group leader, obviously lying through his teeth, claimed there was no room…

I guess the common local practice of standing in the aisle wasn’t an option either? :roll:

Of course, I don’t expect these people to feel obligated to drive two total strangers down the mountain for an hour. But I always think it’s funny when they feel the need to make up a reason why they can’t.

On our third try, success! This particular family looked deeply into our eyes, understood that we weren’t a pair of ax murderers on vacation, and let us jump in the back of their brand new pickup truck.

Fluffy Clouds & Tasty Cheese

The first part of the trip on a rutted-out dirt road was a bit bumpy, and we tried to make ourselves comfortable as best we could. We soon needed sweatshirts too. It’s cold in the back of a pickup truck at 11,000 feet…

The ride down the volcano was incredibly scenic though, and more than made up for the discomfort. Clouds came rolling into the side of the mountain as we passed farms and small villages.

Locals had set up little produce stands on the side of the road, and our truck stopped to buy some local Costa Rican cheese called Queso Palmito. I got into the action and bought a giant ball of it to snack on for the rest of the ride. Soft, watery, ice-cold – road cheese is the perfect hitchhiking treat.

We thanked our new friends & found a bus into the city. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.