Ireland Travel Articles • Expert Vagabond Adventure Travel Blog Adventure Travel & Photography Blog Fri, 04 Aug 2023 13:33:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.3 Killarney National Park: Exploring Mountains, Lakes, and Castles https://expertvagabond.com/killarney-ireland-travel-guide/ Wed, 15 Jul 2020 18:03:10 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=45755 Killarney is a small town in Ireland with rolling hillsides, ancient castles, pristine lakes, and its own National Park. Here are some of the best things to do in Killarney!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Killarney National Park
The Best of Killarney, Ireland
Killarney, Ireland

Killarney is a small town in Ireland with rolling hillsides, ancient castles, pristine lake3s, and its own National Park. Here are some of the best things to do in Killarney!

After traveling to Ireland a few times now, I can safety say that Killarney National Park (Páirc Náisiúnta Chill Airne in Irish) and its surroundings were one of my favorite parts of the country.

Right up there with Dublin and the Cliffs of Moher!

If you close your eyes and imagine Ireland, you probably think of rolling green fields and charming villages. Killarney certainly meets those expectations.

Killarney has some of the best natural wonders in Ireland. The town sits on the shores of Lough Leane in Ireland’s southwest County Kerry, and is part of the famous “Ring Of Kerry” drive that lures many foreign tourists.

Whether you’re in the mood for some Irish culture and history in Killarney Town, or prefer an outdoor adventure in Killarney National Park, the area has it all.

After having an amazing time there, I wanted to share some of my favorite things to do in Killarney, Ireland if you happen to be planning a trip.

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Best Things To Do In Killarney Guide

1. Visit Killarney National Park

Ladies View in Killarney
Ladies View in Killarney National Park

Killarney National Park is made up of mossy valleys and woodlands — famed for its beautiful mountain ranges, castles, lakes, and waterfalls.

Killarney became Ireland’s first national park in 1932 when Muckross Estate was donated to the Irish Free State. Today, it covers 25,000 acres.

Outdoor lovers can explore the forests to appreciate the incredible ecological diversity, including the Lakes of Killarney, plus oak and yew woodlands.

It’s free to enter the national park, but some of the attractions inside may have entry fees.

Many of the highlights I mention below are part of the National Park, with the others are right next door. There’s a lot of fun things to do in the area!

2. The Muckross House

Muckross House in Killarney
The Historic Muckross House

The Muckross House Gardens stand near Muckross Lake in Killarney National Park. This stunning Victorian mansion was built for Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife, water colorist Mary Balfour Herbert, in 1843.

Lord Ardilaun of the Guinness family purchased the home in 1899. Guests can tour the home, gardens, and working farms all year long. Rooms contain elegant period furniture to reflect the lifestyle of its previous inhabitants.

Thick ivy climbs its stone walls, changing color with the seasons, and extensive manicured gardens compliment the mansion.

The grounds contain three separate working farms, as well as the ruins of Muckross Abbey (with a tree growing inside!) The farmhouses contain traditional style dressers, beds, and meal bins. You can also visit the Labourer’s Cottage, a Carpenter’s Workshop, and a Blacksmith’s Forge.

Opening Times:

9am – 6pm

Entry Fee:

House tours cost €9 EURO. Wandering the grounds is free.

3. Explore Ross Castle

Ross Castle
Ross Castle at Sunrise

Located on the edge of Lower Lake in Killarney National Park, Ross Castle is a renovated castle just a few minutes’ drive from town. The ruling clan O’Donoghues Mór built the castle in 1537. It has since been the setting of many battles over the centuries.

Visitors can go on guided tours of the castle during summer months. The castle also hosts boat trips from Ross and Reen piers to Innisfallen Island on the Lower Lake and to Lord Brandon’s Cottage on the Upper Lake.

Locals say that the castle’s original owner, O’Donoghue, killed himself by leaping out of a window into the lake. He supposedly continues to haunt the lake, circling it on a white horse every seven years on the first of May.

Anyone who catches a glimpse of the ghost will enjoy a lifetime of good fortune!

Opening Times:

March 7th – October 22nd: 9:30am – 5:45pm

Entry Fee:

No fee to enter, but guided tours are €5 EURO.

4. Old Weir Bridge

Old Weir Bridge
Stone Bridge in Killarney National Park

Like much of Ireland, in Killarney, you can find ample examples of centuries-old ruins scattered throughout the countryside. Old Weir Bridge is an ancient stone arch bridge where the three main lakes of Killarney meet.

Historians believe the bridge dates back to the 16th century. To get here, you can take a boat tour, bike, or walk. There is no road access, but there is a car park on the N71. From there you can walk to Dinis Cottage (and have a coffee), then follow the footpath to Old Weir Bridge.

5. Red Deer Spotting

Red Deer in Ireland
Ireland’s Native Red Deer

While exploring the Killarney National Park, you’ll likely spot Ireland’s largest mammal (and the second largest in Europe), the red deer. Red deer have a reddish-brown coat. Male stags grow up to 240 kg (530 lbs) and boast impressive antlers.

You can see them all year long, but late spring is calving season and the best time to see young fawns.

I was lucky and happened to be there in October during the annual “deer rut”, when rival stags fight each other for the attention of females.

The best places to see red deer are Knochreer Estate opposite Saint Mary’s Cathedral as well as the Muckross House area. Keep your ears open for their distinctive ghost-like sounds or the growls of males throughout the park.

6. Visit Killarney’s Pretty Lakes

Row Boat on a Lake
Killarney’s Beautiful Lakes

The lakes of Killarney are an ideal destination for enjoying the outdoors and seeing wildlife. Lush woodlands and towering mountains surround the region’s three lakes: Lough Leane, Muckross Lake, and Upper Lake.

  • Lough Leane is the largest of the three, with the nickname Lower Lake. You can take a boat trip to one of the islands, Innisfallen, which contains ancient ruins of an abbey that dates back to 600 AD. Ross Castle is also here.
  • Muckross Lake is also known as Middle Lake, and features a footpath called the Muckross Lake Loop that takes between 3-5 hours to walk. Take a side trip to see the stunning 18 meter (60 feet) high Torc Waterfall nearby.
  • Upper Lake is the smallest and southernmost of the three lakes. Home to some of the best salmon and brown trout, the lake has become a popular spot for fishing enthusiasts.

You can also book a boat tour or kayak tour of the lakes, if you’d like to get out on the water for a bit.

7. Carrauntoohil & The Macgillycuddy Reeks

Carrauntoohill Moutain Summit
Hiking Ireland’s Highest Mountain

One of my favorite experiences in Ireland was hiking Carrauntoohil Mountain in the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range. The tallest mountain in Ireland!

There are many fun hikes in this area, including a few different options to reach the top of Carrautoohil.

I chose the more difficult Coomloughra Horseshoe, a 6-8 hour trek over all three of Ireland’s highest peaks: Beenkeragh, Carrauntoohil, and Caher.

Whichever trail you decide to tackle, caution is needed as the hiking can get dangerous in bad weather. These mountains may not be huge, but they can still pack a punch!

8. Check Out Torc Waterfall

Torc Waterfall
Torc Waterfall Hike

Torc Waterfall is a popular attraction in the area, and just a 5-minute walk from the road, so it’s a great activity for kids. The Owengarriff River drops 80 feet into this pretty waterfall surrounded by woodlands.

For the more adventurous, there are many other trails around the waterfall, including the Torc Mountain Trail, a rocky 2-hour hike that gives you excellent views of Killarney National Park.

There’s also the Huntsman’s Hill trail which loops 3.5 km (2.1 miles), and the Torc Loop, a more moderate hike that takes about 40 minutes.

9. St Mary’s Cathedral

St. Mary's Cathedral
St. Mary’s Cathedral

Located just a five minutes’ walk from the shopping precinct in Killarney, St. Mary’s Cathedral has some impressive stonework and stained glass windows making it well worth a visit.

Soaring ceilings provide ideal acoustics when the organ plays during mass. The cathedral frequently hosts weddings and other church services.

Designed by Augustus Welby Pugin, construction began in 1842 but came to a pause during the great potato famine. It was finally finished in 1907.

10. Castlelough Castle (McCarthy Mor)

McCarthy Mor Ruins
Ruins of McCarthy Mor

The historic Castlelough Castle overlooks Lough Leane, Killarney’s Lower Lake. Historians believe the Anglo-Norman De Roches built the castle in the 12th or 13th century.

In 1262, the Gaelic MacCarthys took over the castle after a battle between the Anglo-Norman and Gaelic forces. It remained under MacCarthy control until the reign of King George II in the mid 18th century.

The Lake Hotel and Castlelough Restaurant now sits next to the ruins. The surrounding mountains and woodlands make this an ideal place to stay while visiting the Irish countryside.

11. Walk The Gap Of Dunloe

Gap Of Dunloe Walk
The Gap Of Dunloe

Formed over 25,000 years ago, the Gap of Dunloe was created by a glacier breach in the Black Valley. This narrow mountain pass splits the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range in the west from the Purple Mountain range in the east.

Its name Dunloe comes from Irish, Dún Lóich, meaning “Lóich’s stronghold”. Legend says Mac Lóich was the father of the five chieftains who conquered and ruled over Ireland for 37 years from 3266 BC.

The road is single lane, with turnoffs in case you encounter oncoming traffic. But I recommend walking the road, biking it, or hire a jaunting horse cart starting from Kate Kearney’s Cottage. The 5-mile round-trip journey passes small farms, lakes, and rugged mountains.

12. Driving The Ring Of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry
The Kerry Cliffs

Killarney is the starting point for the Ring Of Kerry, a popular circular road trip in Ireland. Ancient stone ruins dot mossy green hillsides and craggy shorelines along this coastal road.

Meant to be driven counter-clockwise (due to some single-lane roads), the route passes many scenic and historical Irish landmarks.

  • Killorglin (Home of the Goat King)
  • Ballycarbery Castle
  • Leacanabuaile Stone Forts
  • Ladies View
  • Moll’s Gap
  • Derrynane Beach
  • The Skellig Ring
  • Kerry Cliffs

Unfortunately I didn’t have time to drive the Ring Of Kerry, as there was plenty for me to do just around Killarney for 3 days before moving North to explore the Dingle Peninsula.

Where To Stay In Killarney

Killarney has plenty of accommodation available, everything from budget backpacker hostels to 5-star luxury hotels. Below you’ll find suggestions for good places to stay during your trip to Killarney depending on your budget.


BEST HOTELS IN KILLARNEY

BEST AIRBNB’S IN KILLARNEY


Where To Eat In Killarney

Murphy’s Of Killarney

I recommend heading to Murphy’s of Killarney for a pint and a chance to mingle with the locals.

Murphy’s features live music plays in a cozy atmosphere, with traditional pub fare including shepherds pie, Guinness beef stew, and fish and chips.

Bricin

Bricin means “small trout” in Gaelic, and is also the name of a stone bridge in Killarney National Park. Bricin is also a popular restaurant in a restored historic building on High Street.

The antique timber and stained glass windows call guests to dine in an inviting atmosphere. Local folk crafts and artwork decorate the walls.

Jaunting Horse Rides
The Irish Jaunting Horse Cart

Transportation Around Killarney

Rental Car

The best site to book your car is with Discover Cars. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Ireland.

Renting a car offers the best flexibility to explore remote parts of Ireland, and avoid the big tour groups.

Killarney Shuttle Bus

If you don’t have a car, the best option is to do the hop-on-hop-off bus from Killarney Shuttle Bus. It takes you from Killarney to all the main attractions in Killarney National Park.

Taxi

There is local taxi service around Killarney, but I’d use them as a last resort.

Jaunting Carts

During your time in Killarney, you’re sure to see plenty of horse-drawn carriages called “Jaunting Carts” or “pony-and-trap” throughout the National Park. This is a popular way for tourists to get around. You can go for short rides, or a full-blown National Park tour with different stops.

Driving in Killarney
Inside the town of Killarney

Killarney Travel Tips and Advice

  • Weather in Killarney depends on the season. Summer temperatures average 50F (10C) to 60F (16C). That makes summer the busiest time for tourists. It’s Ireland, so rain is possible anytime.
  • You can easily get to Killarney from any of Ireland’s main cities, like Dublin, Galway, or Cork via train or rental car. Kerry Airport is also located about 13 km (7 miles) from the city.
Travel Planning Resources For Killarney
Packing Guide
Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip.
Book Your Flight
Ready to fly? Here’s how I find the cheapest airline flights.
Rent A Car
Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.
Cheap Accommodation
Learn how I save money booking hotels & vacation apartments.
Protect Your Trip
Don’t forget travel insurance! Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read why you should always carry travel insurance.

Enjoy This Article? Pin It!


READ MORE IRELAND TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on what to do in Killarney! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:


Any questions about things to do in Killarney? Do you have other suggestions? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Hiking Carrauntoohil: Ireland’s Highest Mountain https://expertvagabond.com/carrauntoohil-hiking-ireland/ Sun, 12 May 2019 06:25:25 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=39890 While traveling through County Kerry I decided to climb 4 of Ireland's biggest mountains in a single day, including Carrauntoohil, the highest one in the country. Here's how!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Hiking Carrauntoohil in Ireland
Hiking Carrauntoohil Mountain via the Coomloughra Horseshoe
Kerry, Ireland

While traveling through County Kerry I decided to climb 4 of Ireland’s biggest mountains in a single day, including Carrauntoohil, the highest one in the country. Here’s how!

If you’re looking for a challenging (and free) outdoor activity to do while traveling in Ireland, I highly recommend hiking to the top of Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s highest mountain at 1038 meters (3,407 ft).

Carrauntoohil (Corrán Tuathail in Irish, meaning Tuathail’s Sickle) is part of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range, located in County Kerry.

This is a great hike to do if you’re traveling through Killarney, home of Killarney National Park.

While there are a few different ways up Carrauntoohil, I decided to hike the Coomloughra Horseshoe Loop, considered the best ridge walk in Ireland.

In this hiking guide, I’ll share information about the different routes up Carrauntoohil, what the experience is like, and how to pack for this unique Irish adventure!

Sunrise over the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks
An Early Morning Start

Carrauntoohil Hiking Routes

There are 3 main routes up Carrauntoohil for hikers to tackle, as well as a more difficult 4th option called the Coomloughra Horseshoe that hits all 3 of Ireland’s highest peaks in one go.

Which is the best route to climb Carrauntoohil? Well, most people choose the Devil’s Ladder Route because it’s the most straightforward.

However, If you’ve been following my adventures for a while now, you’ll know that I tend to enjoy a good challenge. So obviously I picked the longest & most difficult one — the Coomloughra Horseshoe Loop.

1. Brother O’Shea’s Gully Trail

Distance: (6.8 miles)
Hiking Time: 4-6 Hours
Starting Location: Cronin’s Yard
This is considered the easiest hike up Carrauntoohil. It starts at Cronin’s Yard, as does the Devil’s Ladder hike. After passing through “Hags Glen” you take a right fork that rises over Lake Gouragh. You then climb a series of gentle slopes, with a few exposed sections before reaching Carrauntoohil. Hike back the same way.

2. Devil’s Ladder Trail

Distance: (7.1 miles)
Hiking Time: 4-6 Hours
Starting Location: Cronin’s Yard
Also starting at Cronin’s Yard, Devil’s Ladder is the most popular “tourist trail” which leads straight between Lake Gouragh and Lake Callee (after fording a small river) towards the base of Carrauntoohil. Devil’s Ladder itself is a steep gully filled with loose scree. Once you’re thoroughly exhausted, you’ll reach the summit of Carrauntoohil. Hike back the same way.

3. The Caher Trail

Hiking Time: 4-6 Hours
Starting Location: Hydro Track Parking Lot
This route takes you to Carrauntoohil via Ireland’s third highest peak, Caher. Starting from a parking lot you pass a locked gate and head up a steep tractor road called the “Hydro Track”. The road turns into a hiking path that brings you into a valley next to Lough Eighter (a lake shaped like an 8). Take the trail on the right of the lake up Caher Mountain, then across a ridge to the summit of Carrauntoohil. Hike back the same way.

4. Coomloughra Horseshoe Loop

Distance: 12 km (7.5 miles)
Hiking Time: 6-8 Hours
Starting Location: Hydro Track Parking Lot
Starting in the same parking lot as The Caher Trail, this longer loop trail branches off to the left of Lough Eighter instead, hitting all three of Ireland’s highest peaks around a horseshoe-type shape: Beenkeragh, Carrauntoohil, and Caher. This is the route I hiked, so I’ll share more details below.

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For more details on all these different hiking routes, as well as safety information, make sure to visit the Kerry Mountain Rescue Website.

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Foggy Morning
Hiking up Beenkeragh in the Fog
Mountain Climbing Sheep
Making New Friends Along the Hike

Hiking The Coomloughra Horseshoe

Leaving my rental car at the trailhead parking lot, I jump over a locked gate onto a steep and worn concrete tractor road called the “Hydro Track”.

It’s still dark out, and I seem to be the first one on the trail.

Eventually, I have to climb over another livestock gate and the concrete road turns into a proper walking trail. As the sun begins to rise, I see ominous clouds covering the high peaks that are my ultimate destination.

Hopefully I’ll get some kind of clear view from the top!

I’m not optimistic though, as Ireland’s weather can be very unpredictable. Or, should I say predictably bad most of the time…

Carrauntoohil Mountain View
Ireland’s Highest Mountain – Carrauntoohil

Scrambling Over Beenkeragh Ridge

Sheep are my only hiking companions at the moment. They’re painted bright blue, for what I assume is to identify which ewes have been impregnated and to keep away from the ram.

At the top of Beenkeragh, Ireland’s 2nd highest mountain, luckily the clouds begin to dissolve, and I catch my first glimpse of Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s highest peak.

I can barely make out a giant steel cross at the top.

From here it’s down onto the very narrow Beenkeragh Ridge, which is several hundred meters long. A twisting traverse featuring rock obstacles and steep drop-offs on either side.

This is not a trail you’d want to tackle in the rain, bad visibility, or other types of bad weather.

Beenkeragh Ridge Trail
Can You Spot the Hikers (and Sheep?)
Carrauntoohil Ireland's Highest Mountain
Carrauntoohil Summit (1038 m / 3,407 ft)

Reaching The Summit Of Carrauntoohil

I finally make it onto Carrauntoohil itself looking back the way I came to see a pair of hikers that look like ants carefully walking through a maze of boulders on the opposite peak.

Below them, a tiny rock-climbing sheep grazes away at the grasses between the rocks.

At the summit, I’m able to see the giant 12-foot steel cross up-close. Originally a wooden cross, it was replaced with this one. In 2014 it was cut down by someone protesting the Catholic Church but raised again soon after.

Plaques remember fallen climbers who died trying to reach this point. While Carrauntoohil is not a very high mountain, it can still be pretty dangerous in bad weather.

The clouds have completely disappeared now though, and I have a perfect 360-degree view of the Irish countryside.

There’s also a simple rock shelter with no roof for getting out of the wind. I break out my lunch and brew a cup of mountain coffee before moving Southwest to my third and final peak of the day — Caher.

Coomloughra Horseshoe View
Walking from Carrauntoohil to Caher
Mount Caher in the Sun
Ireland’s 3rd Highest Mountain: Caher

The Traverse To Caher Mountain

From the summit, the trail flattens out into a pleasant walk that follows a ridge at the head of the valley. It then begins to rise on the approach to Caher.

Lough (Lake) Eighter can be seen far below in the valley, back where the hike began.

After a short but steep climb, I reach the summit of Caher (1,000 m / 3,300 ft). It’s getting windy now, so I don’t stay long and start walking down the other side.

On the hike down, I pass a local man who shares the tale of five Americans who lost their lives in these mountains during World War 2 when they mistakenly flew their plane into the side of one nearby.

My Irish hiking adventure finishes up as I make it back to the path that leads me down to the concrete Hydro Track and my rental car.

This mission to hike Ireland’s 3 highest peaks via the Coomloughra Horseshoe Loop in one day has been accomplished!

Caher Mountain Summit
The Summit of Caher Mountain (1,000 m / 3,300 ft)
Lough Eighter Ireland
Hiking down Caher over Lough Eighter

How To Get To Carrauntoohil

Carrauntoohil Mountain is located in the south of Ireland, in County Kerry. It’s part of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks range. The largest town nearby is Killarney. From Killarney, the trailheads are about a 30-minute drive away.

The best site to book a rental car is Discover Cars. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Ireland.

For tips on driving in Ireland, make sure to read my article here.

There’s really no public transport to these trailheads unless you hire a private taxi. Another option is to join a professionally guided hike that includes transportation.

Packing List For Carrauntoohil

Here’s a list of recommended gear to bring with you on a hiking trip up Carrauntoohil. Make sure to check out my ultimate backpacking checklist to help you plan future hiking & camping trips too!

Clothing

I recommend packing layers for hikes. You can add or remove them to stay comfortable in all sorts of conditions. I generally wear a pair of rugged hiking pants or a lightweight quick-dry version.

Along with a t-shirt or long-sleeve base layer, I pack a warm & lightweight fleece sweatshirt, and a rainproof/windproof shell jacket. A thin pair of gloves and a buff are good for when temperatures drop.

Footwear

This is not a hike to do in your flip-flops! There are some wet boggy sections on this trail, so make sure your footwear is waterproof. I usually wear a pair of trail running shoes or backpacking boots on my hiking trips.

Equipment

This is a day-hike, so you don’t need a giant backpack. A decent daypack should be fine. Read my tips for choosing a good travel backpack here. Depending on the hike, sometimes I bring hiking poles too. Because my Irish skin burns easily, I always have sunscreen and a hat.

Food/Water

I usually stock up on healthy, high-calorie snacks like Pemmican Bars or homemade trail mix. Sometimes I’ll bring a small backpacking stove to make mountain coffee. And of course, my trusty filtered water bottle!

Carrauntoohil Hiking Tips

  • Feel free to hike one trail up Carrauntoohil and another to return down on to mix it up a bit and experience some different viewpoints and trail conditions.
  • Even though this mountain isn’t very high compared to places like the Alps, don’t underestimate the weather or exposure here. Strong winds & heavy fog can quickly make hiking very dangerous.
  • Remember to practice basic safe hiking guidelines and tell someone else about your route, and when you expect to finish the hike.
  • Know your personal limits, and don’t take on too much risk. If your gut tells you something feels too dangerous, listen to it!
  • While I hiked this trail solo, I generally recommend hiking with a partner unless you’re an experienced and confident hiker with navigation skills.
Travel Planning Resources For Ireland
Packing Guide
Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip.
Book Your Flight
Ready to fly? Here’s how I find the cheapest airline flights.
Rent A Car
Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.
Cheap Accommodation
Learn how I save money booking hotels & vacation apartments.
Protect Your Trip
Don’t forget travel insurance! Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read why you should always carry travel insurance.

Enjoy This Article? Pin It!


READ MORE IRELAND TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on hiking Carrauntoohil! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:


Any questions about hiking Carrauntoohil in Ireland? Are you planning trip there? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Everything You Need To Know Before Renting A Car In Ireland https://expertvagabond.com/renting-car-in-ireland/ Sat, 27 Apr 2019 13:31:27 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=39651 Renting a car in Ireland and driving around the country yourself is a great way to experience the Emerald Isle. But here's some advice about the best way to do it.

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Renting A Car In Ireland
Tips For Renting A Car In Ireland
Ireland Driving Guide

Renting a car in Ireland and driving around the country yourself is a wonderful way to experience the Emerald Isle. But here’s some advice about the best way to do it.

When my family and I were planning our genealogy trip to Ireland in order to learn more about our ancestors, we were initially hesitant about renting a car to explore the country by ourselves.

Ireland has a bit of a reputation for narrow and scary winding roads!

Plus of course, they drive on the other side of the road, so there’s that. But the more we researched, the more we realized car rental in Ireland would allow us to make our itinerary as imaginative as possible.

I love the freedom of road trips and planning my own travel itineraries. Ireland is such a diverse country that it made sense to rent a car so we could stop anywhere to discover small villages, castles, and go hiking at our own pace.

Here are some important tips we learned from our experience renting a car in Ireland, to help you save money and stay safe while driving around the country!

Matthew Karsten

Hi, I’m Matthew Karsten

I’ve been traveling the world for 10+ years as a professional photographer & writer. I hope you enjoy my Ireland tips! If you find them useful, using my affiliate links to book something will give me a small commission, at no extra cost to you. Thanks!

How To Rent A Car In Ireland

1. Should You Self-Drive In Ireland?

Car Driving through Irish Landscape
Driving in Ireland for Tourists

Hey, if you love those big group bus tours, by all means, go book one. It’s a decent way to see Ireland if you don’t have a lot of time.

No planning, no driving, just sit back and let someone else do all the work!

But if you’re like me, you prefer the adventure of independent travel.

No set schedule or timetable — driving around Ireland with the freedom to stop anyplace cool you find along the way.

If that’s the kind of traveler you are, renting a car in Ireland is the way to go!

Just keep in mind that some of the back roads in Ireland can be very narrow, and often feel like a single lane (but they’re not). With some practice, you’ll gain confidence on them!

Another nice thing we enjoyed about having a car was the ability to store things in the trunk, stopping off in Irish towns with small travel backpacks rather than hauling luggage everywhere.

2. Where To Rent Your Car In Ireland

Family Driving Rental Car
Learning to Drive on the Opposite Side!

Some common car rental companies in Ireland include Europecar, Enterprise, Sixt, Hertz, a local one called Dooley, and many more.

But the best site to book your car is Discover Cars. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Ireland.

We rented our car from Dublin Airport after spending a few days in the city. Our South West route brought us to Cork on the M8 before moving on to Killarney National Park and then Glengarriff, where my grandmother was born.

After tracking down our family history in this small coastal fishing village, we drove North on the Wild Atlantic Way up to Dingle and the famous Cliffs of Moher, then to Galway, and finally back to Dublin.

Dublin Airport: Plan to pick up your car about 60 minutes after your flight arrives. When departing, try to be at the airport at least 3 1/2 hours before your flight leaves. Because returning your rental car and catching a shuttle back to the airport can take up to 30 minutes.

Shannon Airport: Plan to pick up your car about 30 minutes after your flight arrives. When departing, try to be at the airport at least 2 1/2 hours before your flight leaves. Again, because of the shuttle.

Rental Cars

Rent A Car In Ireland

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

Gap Of Dunloe Walk
The Gap Of Dunloe
Ireland Road Trip Highlights
The Amazing Cliffs of Moher

3. Car Rental Insurance In Ireland

Some of the rumors about driving in Ireland are true, and the roads are VERY narrow in areas. Especially the back roads outside Ireland’s smaller towns. Don’t worry, I’ll share some tips for dealing with them below.

This is why I highly recommend getting full insurance coverage.

Typically, rental cars in Ireland come with a basic Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), but this isn’t exactly insurance, and only covers the car for up to €1000-3000 EUROS worth of damage.

This is the amount they hold on your credit card until you return the car in one piece. CDW typically does not include tire, cracked windshield, or undercarriage damage either.

While you can often save money booking your car with a good travel credit card that includes car rental insurance, you REALLY must read the fine print, because many people wrongly assume their card covers them in Ireland.

If you get in a wreck driving in Ireland, declined full coverage, and you suddenly learn your credit card doesn’t actually cover the damage — you’re screwed. I can’t tell you how many travel horror stories I’ve heard like this…

It’s why I usually pre-book full coverage online. It’s cheaper than at the counter — and then you won’t have to worry about accidents at all!

4. How Much Does It Cost To Rent A Car In Ireland?

Irish Cathedral in Cobh
The Stunning Cobh Cathedral

Renting a car in Ireland is going to cost you around $25-$40 USD a day, depending on the type of car you get. Our 4 door sedan was about $30 per day.

I recommend renting a car with an actual trunk (no hatchbacks) to hide your luggage from prying eyes. It helps to prevent break-ins if thieves can’t see your stuff.

Gas Prices

Gas (petrol) prices in Ireland might seem cheap to Americans, but remember that the rest of the world quotes gas in Liters, not Gallons (1 Gallon = 3.78 Liters). Currently, gas costs about $5.90 per gallon (€1.40 per liter) in Ireland. Diesel cars will often save you some money on gas.

Automatic vs Manual

Automatic cars are more expensive to rent than manual cars (but manuals are more common in Ireland, and Europe in general), and you must specify what type you want when booking. If you’ve never driven a manual car before, don’t start in Ireland! It’s safer to get an automatic.

One-Way Rentals

There’s an additional fee for one-way car rentals in Ireland, which can vary by company. For example, if you want to drop off the car in a different city than where you started from.

Admin Fee

If you opt to use your own credit card insurance, companies in Ireland will charge you an “admin fee” of about €30 EURO.

Credit Card Fee

I was charged an extra €5 EURO just for using a credit card. Which is strange to me, but typical in Ireland.

Irish Taxes

Car rentals in Ireland have a very high tax rate of 13.6%. Ouch! Nothing you can really do about it.

5. Age Requirements For Renting A Car

The minimum age for driving in Ireland is 18 years old, however most car rental companies enforce their own age limit of 21 years old to rent a car. They also charge an additional fee if you’re under 24 years old.

6. Irish Driving Laws Tourists Should Know

Driving in Killarney
Driving Through the Town of Killarney

The most confusing part of driving in Ireland for most tourists is driving on the left side of the road — with the driver’s seat on the right side of the car.

If you’ve never been to a country that drives on the left, it’s wise to practice a bit in a small town before you head onto the highways of Ireland.

For example, just North of Dublin Airport is the town of Swords. Maybe spend an hour or two getting the hang of driving there before you enter Dublin or onto the main highways.

While challenging at first, especially if driving a manual, you’ll get the hang of it quickly and will be ready to explore Ireland by car in no time!

The speed limit on local roads is generally around 80 km/h while on national highways it’s up to 100 km/h.

7. International Driver’s License

No, you do not need an international driver’s license to drive in Ireland or rent a car there. Just bring your passport, credit card, and your driver’s license from your home country.

8. Helpful Tips For Driving In Ireland

Beautiful Irish Castle
Ross Castle at Sunrise

Watch out for sheep! In many smaller towns, local shepherds move their sheep on the roads. You can easily round a sharp bend and find yourself stuck behind a huge flock walking down the road.

Narrow back roads in Ireland don’t have standard break-down lanes as we have in America. There’s often no room for error or pulling over.

Sometimes your side-view mirror will be inches away from stone walls or hedges while passing other cars! It can make driving in Ireland nerve-wracking.

Remember to carry some cash for road tolls on Ireland’s major highways. Irish tolls can cost between $1-$3 for a passenger car.

In the countryside, some roads are truly single lane, but with traffic in both directions. In these situations, there are pull-outs so one of you can pull over for the other to pass.

USEFUL TIP: Buy a cheap “learner” sticker (L) sold at gas stations so Irish locals don’t get pissed off at your incompetence on their roads!

9. Extra Advice For Renting A Car In Ireland

Driving Rental Car in Glengarriff Ireland
The Colorful Town of Glengarriff, Ireland
  • You don’t need a rental car for Dublin itself. Parking can be a pain and Dublin is very walk-able with excellent public transportation too.
  • If you’re starting from Dublin, maybe book the rental car for the days after Dublin, when you begin the proper road trip.
  • Don’t book a car without reading the company reviews. You’ll find plenty of bad reviews for every company (people love to complain online), but try to pick one with the LEAST bad reviews.
  • You may not always get the make/model/type of car you booked. If they give you a smaller car, or a manual when you asked for an automatic, be pushy and ask for an upgrade.
  • Inspect your car thoroughly and record video on your smartphone pointing out damage before you leave. This is a backup if they attempt to charge you for damage that was already there. This is a common car rental scam in Ireland….
  • Pay attention to if your Ireland rental car takes regular petrol or diesel fuel, so you fill up with the correct type at gas stations.
  • Use Google Maps on your smartphone for directions instead of renting a GPS device. Simply use your own hands-free car mount and a good international cell phone plan.

10. Accident & Breakdown Information

In an emergency, you can dial the European Emergency Phone Number 112 in Ireland. This is similar to dialing 911 in the United States.

However if your car simply breaks down, and no one is injured, its probably better to call your Ireland car rental company’s own emergency roadside assistance number located on the rental agreement.

Enjoy Your Ireland Road Trip!

Exploring the small villages, ancient castles, green mountains, and coastal cliffs of Ireland in a rental car was definitely the right choice for us.

Self-drive road trips get off the beaten track to see things most people miss! ★

Rental Cars

Rent A Car In Ireland

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

Travel Planning Resources For Ireland
Packing Guide
Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip.
Book Your Flight
Ready to fly? Here’s how I find the cheapest airline flights.
Rent A Car
Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.
Cheap Accommodation
Learn how I save money booking hotels & vacation apartments.
Protect Your Trip
Don’t forget travel insurance! Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read why you should always carry travel insurance.

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READ MORE IRELAND TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on renting cars in Ireland! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:


Do you have any other suggestions or stories about renting cars in Ireland? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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30 Fun Things To Do In Dublin, Ireland (Plus What To Avoid) https://expertvagabond.com/dublin-things-to-do/ Wed, 05 Sep 2018 13:00:26 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=24028 The city of Dublin is known for its charming streets, colorful doorways, live music and historic architecture. Here are some of the best things to do in Dublin that you won't want to miss!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Things To Do In Dublin
Best Things To Do in Dublin, Ireland
Dublin, Ireland

The city of Dublin Ireland is known for its charming streets, colorful doorways, live music and historic architecture. Here are some of the best things to do in Dublin on your visit!

Dublin may be one of Europe’s smaller capital cities, but it has been known to steal the heart of every visitor, with something for everyone.

Ireland’s capital is famous for stunning cathedrals, haunted places, pubs with live music, historical museums, and hidden attractions.

There are many quirky, unique, unusual, and secret spots to discover in Dublin!

I traveled here with my family during our Irish genealogy trip, tracking down the old home of my Irish grandmother. We had a fantastic time!

Because most travelers visiting Ireland spend some time in the capital, I wanted to recommend a few fun and unusual things to do in Dublin, no matter what time of year you visit.

My Dublin itinerary is completely free! I’ve worked hard putting it together for you. If you find it useful, please use my affiliate links when you book hotels, rental cars or activities. I’ll get paid a small commission, at no extra cost to you! Thanks.

Dublin Highlights Map

HOW TO USE THIS MAP: Above you’ll find a map of highlights in Dublin. Click on the top left of the map to find separate layers marking the route and points of interest. You can hide and show different layers, or click icons on the map to see the names of places I mention in this travel guide. “Star” the map to save it to your own Google Maps, or open the map in a new window for a larger version. Enjoy!

Travel Insurance

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft while on vacation. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance!

Best Things To Do In Dublin (2023 Guide)

1. Visit St. Patrick’s Cathedral

St. Patrick's Cathedral Dublin
Inside St. Patrick’s Cathedral

Founded in 1191, St. Patrick’s Cathedral is the largest church in Ireland, and the National Cathedral. It has been said this is where St. Patrick himself baptized Christian converts over 1500 years ago.

Unusually, St. Patrick’s isn’t the only Cathedral in Dublin. It’s a “multi-cathedral” city, sharing the title with nearby Christ Church Cathedral.

Visitors can go inside and enjoy the impressive church interior between 9am and 5pm daily. A must to add to your Dublin itinerary. You can go on your own, or join a guided tour (and skip the line).

The writer Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels, was once Dean of the cathedral. He’s buried there too. On a sunny day, you’ll find tourists and locals alike enjoying the cathedral grounds soaking up the history.

Dublin Cathedral Tour

St. Patrick’s Cathedral Tour

Skip the line and explore St. Patrick’s with an expert guide. Learn about the history of Ireland’s largest cathedral.

2. Fish n’ Chips At Leo Burdocks

Things To Do In Dublin: Fish and Chips
Dublin’s Most Famous Fish and Chips

You can’t leave Dublin without trying a traditional Fish n’ Chips! But one place stands out from all the rest. Leo Burdocks Fish n’ Chips is so good in fact that they even have a ‘Wall of Fame’ outside showcasing visits from celebrities and politicians from around the world.

The original Burdocks has been around since 1913. They were serving up piping hot food during both World Wars and the 1916 Rising, when Ireland gained its independence from Britain.

The shop itself can only hold about 3 people, so grab your grub and head down to St. Patrick’s Cathedral nearby. Ask for the ‘crispy bits’ with your chips… you can thank me later!

3. Read At Trinity College Library

Ireland's Oldest University
Trinity College Library in Dublin

Created in 1592, Trinity College is Ireland’s oldest university, hosting students such as author Bram Stoker, poet Oscar Wilde and Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels.

The building has also been home to the ancient Book Of Kells since 1661. The Book of Kells Exhibition in Trinity College is a must-see in Dublin, but where it leads you to is the real treat…

The Old Library houses 200,000 ancient books in beautiful oak bookcases, which is why J.K. Rowling used it as inspiration for Hogwarts in Harry Potter! The library is one of the most popular Instagram spots in Dublin too.

Walking Tour

Dublin Walking Tour

See the best of Dublin on a historic guided tour of the city’s top attractions and highlights. Includes Trinity College!

4. Have An Irish Breakfast

Drinking Guinness in Dublin
Drinking Guinness For Breakfast!

They say drinking a pint of Guinness is akin to eating a meal… so why not start your day with a drink? It’s what 100 year old Gladys Fielden has been doing for the past 70 years, and she’s still going strong!

There is an old motto that says “Eat breakfast like a King, lunch like a prince and dine like a pauper” which basically means you should start your day with a large breakfast. The Irish take this to heart.

A traditional Irish breakfast consists of cooked meat (bacon, sausages and black/white puddings), eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, and potato all fried in butter with brown bread.

It was used to prepare you for a full day’s work on the farm on a cold winter morning.

Irish Food

Join A Food Tour

Eat your way around Dublin while learning about Irish food history. Sample food & drinks from award-winning eateries.

5. Christ Church Cathedral

Dublin Highlights Christ Church Cathedral
Visit Christ Church Cathedral

As you climb the spiraling staircase of Christ Church Cathedral, take a moment to imagine what life was like back in 1030, when Dublin’s oldest building first opened its doors.

Imagine the historic events this building has witnessed and the ancient artifacts it has collected along the way.

Christ Church is a highlight of Dublin due to its stunning architecture, its 12th-century crypt and of course the sound of the bells which have rung out over the city’s medieval center for hundreds of years.

Thanks to their self-guided tours, you can now explore the narrow corridors of the Cathedral and ring the bell for yourself, or see their exhibition of original 16th-century costumes.

Christ Church Cathedral Tickets

Dublin City Pass

Get tickets to Christ Church Cathedral as well as 35 other popular attractions in Dublin, for one low price.

6. Trace Ancestors At Glasnevin Cemetery

Dublin Things To Do: Glasnevin Cemetery
Hunting Dead Relatives at Glasnevin

Built in 1832, Dublin’s Glasnevin Cemetery is surrounded by seven watchtowers which were home to armed guards. Ireland’s most famous cemetery was a key target for bodysnatchers!

It was also the final resting place for many historical figures like Michael Colins, a soldier and politician who played a key role in the struggle for Irish independence, Brendan Behan, Irish poet, novelist, and playwright who was imprisoned for IRA activity and Luke Kelly, vocalist in one of Ireland’s greatest bands, The Dubliners.

Nowadays, Glasnevin Cemetery Museum has vowed to tell the stories of over 1.5 million people, the people who helped to shape the Ireland of today. They also have the best tools for your family’s Irish genealogy search.

7. Walk Across Ha’Penny Bridge

Popular Things To Do In Dublin
Dublin Highlight: Ha’Penny Bridge

Every visitor to Dublin should walk across the Ha’Penny bridge at least once. It’s one of the top things to do here. This historic bridge over the River Liffey was built back in 1816, to replace the many ferries that shuttled people back and forth.

It was named for the “half-penny” toll that was required to cross it.

For an even more unique & unusual experience, you can kayak under the bridge with City Kayaking. They run tours all year, and if you’re lucky, you might catch one of Dublin’s famous autumn sunsets.

If you’re REALLY lucky, you can be there for the ‘Music Under the Bridge’ tours when they call in some of the best musicians in Dublin to perform under the bridges as people kayak down the River Liffey through the city.

8. The Howth Cliff Walk

Dublin Things To Do: Howth Cliffs
Howth Cliff Walk

If you’re a nature lover who wants to enjoy a day outside of Dublin city center, the coastal town of Howth should be first on your list.

Here you’ll find some of the best seafood in Dublin, weekend markets for the perfect souvenir and coastal hikes with unimaginable views over the Irish sea. It’s easy to reach by bus, or if you decided to rent a car in Ireland.

On a clear day you will get a panorama view of Dublin Bay and Howth Harbor during this 2 hour trail.

The good news is the Howth Cliff walk is suitable for all fitness levels, but just make sure the weather isn’t too wild. There are also guided walking tours if you’d like to join a group.

Howth Hiking Tour

Howth Cliff Walk Safari

Trek the coastal paths of the Howth Peninsula on a guided walking tour. Explore the cliffs and scenic overlooks.

9. Kilmainham Gaol

Kilmainham Gaol Prison in Dublin
Kilmainham Gaol Prison

Kilmainham Gaol Prison is just 3.5 km away from Dublin’s city center, an unusual Dublin attraction that offers guided tours. Get a timed ticket early so you know when your tour starts to avoid the waiting intervals between tours.

An hour’s tour of the old prison takes you through the yard, the prison, and also gives you an in-depth look at the history of the prison through a media show at the Old Chapel. It might be unsettling as you discover the many revolutionaries and other prisoners were executed here.

As you go through the impeccably restored building, you will see the living conditions for the women, men and children incarcerated until 1924. The prison’s East Wing has been used as a location for many different films, including the original “Italian Job”.

10. Listen To Buskers On Grafton Street

Dublin Musical Attractions
Singing for Tourists on Grafton

You never know what you are going to find on Grafton Street, but you are guaranteed a great show! From traditional Irish music, to rock and pop, this free entertainment is the perfect soundtrack to your Irish trip.

Make sure to take a snap while you’re there because you could be listening to a future star. Recently, 12 year old Irish busker Allie Sherlock was flown to Hollywood by Ellen DeGeneres and is said to be the next Taylor Swift!

Grafton Street has also been known to bring out the busker in everyone, including people like Bono, Hozier, The Script, Damien Rice and Glen Hansard to name a few.

11. Oscar Wilde Statue

Poet Oscar Wilde
Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square Park

The Oscar Wilde Statue sits at a corner of Merrion Square Park, just opposite where this famous Irish poet and playwright lived for some years. It consists of a statue and two pillars; a statue of Oscar Wilde, his wife Constance Lloyd and a statue of Dionysus.

Each detail shows the attention to detail given to the entire sculpting process. For instance, the statue of Oscar Wilde reclines on a rock hewn from the Wicklow Mountains. To add personality and color, the sculptor used a variety of colored stones.

Rouges Tour

Dublin Rogues Walking Tour

Explore Dublin with a local guide while learning about the city’s most famous residents, including Oscar Wilde & Daniel O’Connell.

12. St. Michan Church Mummies

Mummies at St Michan's Church
St Michan’s Church Crypt

St. Michan’s Church isn’t an old fashioned chapel where you explore pews and beautiful murals. Instead, expect a crypt tour of 17th to 19th Century vaults full of mummified people.

Tombstones dot the lush churchyard. A narrow, eerie stairway leads you to the under-croft where you’ll find five vaults.

Noteworthy mummies are the rebellious 1798 Sheares brothers who were executed, a nun’s mummy and a strange one-handed mummy. You’ll also see the Crusader, an 800-year-old mummy that is over six feet tall!

Despite hundreds of years in the vaults, it seems the actual enemy of this hidden attraction is the living, not decay. A few cases of vandalism have rocked headlines over the years.

Ghost Tour

Dublin’s Dark Side Tour

Explore the dark side of Dublin on a 2.5-hour walking tour and hear spooky tales of ghosts & devil worship.

13. Dublin Bus Tour

Dublin Things To Do: Bus Tour
Dublin Bus Tours

With authors and poets such as James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, W.B Yeats and Samuel Beckett, it’s clear to see that Ireland is home to some of the greatest storytellers in the world.

Normally I’m not a fan of bus tours, but the DoDublin Bus guides truly have the ‘gift of the gab’.

They take great pride in presenting the best of Dublin City and throw in plenty of historical and cultural references by famous poets/writers.

Be prepared for the Irish sense of humor though, you can expect a lot of playful sarcasm and plenty of songs from Dublin City – it’s like a history lesson, comedy show and karaoke sing-along mixed into one!

Bus Tour Dublin

Join A Bus Tour

Discover the very best of Dublin with an unlimited 24 or 48 hour hop-on hop-off bus tour. Learn about the history and heritage of the city.

14. See Wild Deer In Phoenix Park

Dublin Things To Do: Phoenix Park
Watch Deer at Phoenix Park

Phoenix Park – Europe’s largest walled urban park is a national treasure for the people of Ireland. Opening over 350 years ago, the park spans 7 square kilometers and can be found just a stones throw away from the city center.

Not only is it home to Dublin Zoo, but it is also known for its wild herd of deer, which can be found roaming through the forests (and crossing the road when you least expect it!).

The deer were introduced back in 1662, when the park itself was set up as a royal deer hunting park, but nowadays the 450 member herd are free to run wild.

Phoenix Park is the perfect place for an afternoon picnic, but do keep your eyes peeled, because the deer have been known to join in!

15. Oratory Of The Sacred Heart

Art lovers have another place to marvel at just outside the city of Dublin by exploring this small chapel in Dun Laoghaire. It took Sister Concepta Lynch took 16 years to complete a stunning mural across the interior of the oratory.

This small church was built to commemorate the end of the First World War. Upon installation of the Sacred Heart statue, Sister Concepta, a nun, started brightening up the wall behind the statue using a distinct painting style. It’s very impressive!

16. Trad Sessions At The Hairy Lemon

Popular Bar in Dublin
Trad Music at the Hairy Lemon

Traditional Irish music, or trad, is one reason many people visit Ireland. And The Hairy Lemon Pub is certainly unconventional… you never know what you’ll find in this aptly-named green and yellow 19th-century house.

One thing is for sure, The Hairy Lemon does the best Trad Sessions in Dublin! If you have never been to an Irish Trad Session, prepare yourself for an unusual experience, it can get pretty wild especially when the Guinness is flowing.

You can grab a seat, but you won’t be sitting for long — Irish dancing on the tables in no time. The Hairy Lemon is also known for their traditional Irish food like Dublin Coddle, Cottage Pie and Irish Stew.

Irish Music

Irish Music Tour

Join a local musician on a fun and educational tour through Dublin’s traditional drinking and Irish-music scene.

17. Watch A Hurling Match

Irish Hurling Sport
See a Local Hurling Match

You may have never heard of Hurling before, but I can guarantee the moment you sit down to watch this ancient Gaelic and Irish sport, you’ll instantly become a fan.

And where better to watch, than in Croke Park (‘Croker’ as the Irish say). Hurling has been played in Ireland for well over 3000 years and is said to be ‘the fastest game on grass’.

It involves a wooden stick called a hurley and a small hard ball called a sliotar, and players must wear helmets at all times – this is high speed, high impact and high adrenaline for everyone watching!

18. The Hungry Tree At King’s Inns

Dublin Itinerary: The Hungry Tree
The Famous “Hungry Tree”

The Hungry Tree is just one of many bizarre, mystical things to do in Ireland. The 69-foot tree at King’s Inns seems to be in the middle of lunch, munching on a tasty iron bench.

Its “upper lip” sits on the top of the bench’s backrest about to eat it completely.

This 80-year-old tree is a plane, a popular species in this city in the 19th Century. The scenic, lush grounds are excellent for a leisurely stroll, and you can then visit the Hungry Tree to just stare at it. Just be careful that it doesn’t eat you too!

19. Taste Some Irish Whiskey

Dublin Whiskey Distillery
Taste some Real Irish Whiskey!

Guinness isn’t the only alcohol Ireland is famous for. Ireland has been making whiskey for well over two hundred years, so it doesn’t get much richer than this when it comes to taste and history.

The most famous whiskey tour in Dublin is the former Jameson Distillery on Bow Street, but it’s really just a museum now, no longer a working distillery. Instead, I’d recommend stopping by the fully functional Teeling Distillery to see an actual distillery in action.

Prepare yourself for a sensory overload, because after the tour you’re invited to try out their premium whiskey tasting experience, where you will learn the tricks of the trade, how to blend your own whiskey or master the craft of whiskey cocktail making.

Whiskey Tour

Irish Whiskey Museum

Learn about Irish whiskey blending at Dublin’s Irish Whiskey Museum. Enjoy 4 types of whiskey and discover how it’s made.

20. Lucy’s Lounge Vintage Store

Pink Building
Lucy’s Lounge Vintage

The pink Lucy’s Lounge building stands out among other shops, restaurants and bars on Frownses Street in Temple Bar. It is clear from the exterior that you will not have an ordinary shopping experience but one with a lot to learn.

The store signs explain you have a vintage store to explore and a wonderland in the basement. Sample a collection of colorful clothes, accessories and gift items.

The furnishing and décor is anything but the usual décor you see in a boutique. From handsaws to hand-painted Barbies, the store owner has brought up the quirky theme perfectly. You might spend more time looking at the furnishings than actually shopping for souvenirs.

21. Visit The Hellfire Club

Hellfire Club Ruins
The Most Haunted Place in Ireland

With beautiful forest trails and an incredible view over Dublin, the Hellfire Club might seem like a peaceful escape from the city at first, but once you make it to the lodge at the top of the hill you will start to realize that there is much more than meets-the-eye.

If you’re not a fan of ghost stories, you might want to stay away as this infamous location is riddled with supernatural tales that will send shivers up your spine!

At the top of the hill you’ll find the haunted remains of the unusual Irish Hellfire Club, where the members were believed to be Satanists and Devil-worshipers — inviting the Devil to join them for dinner each night.

Ghost Tour

Dublin’s Dark Side Tour

Explore the dark side of Dublin on a 2.5-hour walking tour and hear spooky tales of ghosts & devil worship.

22. Samuel Becket Bridge

Samuel Beckett Bridge
Very Cool Bridge in Dublin

If you love iconic architecture, you’ll love the Samuel Becket Bridge design. Built in 2009, Santiago Clatrava, the architect, brought out the shape of the Irish harp with cable suspension forming strings from one edge of River Liffey the other.

With its white color, you can see right over the bridge to the other side of the river. This bridge serves both vehicular and pedestrian traffic, and you can see it as you head from the airport.

Take a walk over the bridge to enjoy a meal or a drink on the other side of the river.

23. Little Museum Of Dublin

Dublin Things To Do: Museums
Visit One of Dublin’s Many Museums

In between historical and mythical tours, you could spare some time to learn a thing or two about the city’s history in the last century from the Little Museum Of Dublin. Enjoy a guided tour of the three floors of this community museum for a look at life in Dublin in the 20th Century. The museum houses more than 5,000 exhibits.

Outstanding exhibits are The 1916 Rising and John F. Kennedy’s tour of the city. There’s a tour every hour, and it is open every day of the week. You could spend about one or two hours exploring the historical events of Dublin. It even has a room to showcase local rock legends like Bono.

You can book a skip-the-line ticket here.

Some more museums in Dublin worth visiting include:

Christ Church Cathedral Tickets

Dublin City Pass

Get tickets to Christ Church Cathedral as well as 35 other popular attractions in Dublin, for one low price.

24. Sweny’s Pharmacy

Inside Sweny's Pharmacy
Sweny’s Pharmacy

Get ready for an exceptional journey through Irish literary history. Sweny’s Pharmacy is one of the attractions that take you into the fictional life of one of the world’s feted books, Ulysses.

In 1847, this quaint but refurbished pharmacy was a general practitioner’s office. Six years later, the office turned into a pharmacy. Now, volunteers keep the place running as a historical attraction, with medicines, prescriptions and photographs arranged neatly in glass cabinets.

There are dozens of second-hand books if you care to read, and lemon-scented soap on the mahogany counter so you can relive the moments Leopold Bloom spent waiting for Frederick William Sweny to serve him.

25. Wander Down To Temple Bar

Temple Bar Neighborhood
Dublin’s Famous Temple Bar Area

The Temple Bar area is a maze of narrow streets full of pubs and live music. Located on the south side of the River Liffey, it’s one of the oldest areas in Dublin and home to some of the most famous bars in Ireland.

It’s a must see if you want to experience Dublin’s nightlife (however these days it’s mostly tourists). But there’s plenty to do in the daytime too, you can even get a guided tour.

Medieval architecture, food markets every Saturday afternoon, Europe’s oldest built theater — it’s no wonder it’s renowned for being the cultural quarter of Dublin. Take a stroll down the cobbled streets and explore its galleries, vintage clothing shops, record stores and more.

Whiskey Tour

Whiskey & Food Tasting Tour

Take in the sights, sounds, and tastes of Ireland’s legendary whiskies, fresh Irish cheeses and chocolates.

26. Picnic At St. Stephen’s Green

Dublin Things To Do: St. Stephen's Green
Relax at St Stephens Green

Saint Stephen’s Green Park is a little piece of paradise in the center of Dublin and the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life. If you’re bringing a picnic to enjoy by the pond, make sure to bring an extra slice of bread for the park residents – the ducks!

Over the past 4 centuries, Stephen’s Green has played a key role in Dublin’s history. When you wander through the peaceful surroundings, it’s hard to imagine that this site was once a battleground during the 1916 Easter Rising.

In the height of battle, James Kearney, the park grounds keeper convinced both sides to stop fighting for one hour a day… so he could feed the ducks of course!

Stephen's Green Tour

St Stephen’s Green Walking Tour

Find out how St Stephen’s Green has played a key role in Irish history on this 1-hour guided walk.

27. Tour Historic Dublin Castle

Dublin Castle
Explore Dublin Castle

Built in the early 13th century, Dublin Castle sits on the site of a Viking settlement. Excavations have uncovered parts of a medieval castle with the remains of the Viking’s original defenses.

The stone covered embankment, the medieval curtain wall and the steps that led down to the original moat have all been preserved for you to see on your next visit to this historical masterpiece.

The history of Dublin Castle doesn’t stop there. Before the 1916 rising, it served as headquarters for the British administration in Ireland. In 1922, following Ireland’s independence, Dublin Castle was handed over to the new Irish government, opened up for visitors to experience it themselves.

Library Tour

Dublin Castle Tickets

Get skip-the-line tickets to visit Dublin Castle and see the famous Book of Kells at Trinity Library.

28. National Leprechaun Museum

Dublin Leprechaun Museum
Experience Life as a Leprechaun!

Visit Dublin’s Jervis Street to explore Ireland through its folklore at the National Leprechaun Museum. Shows start from mid-morning to six O’clock.

As the museum’s marketing brochure suggests, night shows, through the weekend, are for the fearless, the ones who don’t experience nightmares after a tour of the twisted folklore of Ireland.

The experience starts when you step into the first room with large furniture depicting you are now as small as a leprechaun. As you take the imaginary trip into the world of leprechauns, the guide takes you through various rooms while narrating Irish myths.

Each room has a different artistic setting of the Irish folklore world. Various cinematic effects, such as illusions, turn the museum into a mystical trail.

29. Beef Stew At The Church

Dublin Activities: Eat at The Church
The Church Restaurant, Dublin

This might just be the best thing you ever eat, especially on a cold winter’s day in Dublin. Chances are you’ll see Guinness Beef Stew on menus across the city, but the best spot to enjoy it is The Church.

Built at the beginning of the 18th century, The Church (which was an actual church) boasts many outstanding features, like an authentic Renatus Harris organ, spectacularly stained glass windows, and has hosted some incredible historic events.

Arthur Guinness, founder of The Guinness Brewery (another great stop in Dublin) married here in 1761. Sean O’Casey – Playwright & Author of “The Plough & The Stars” – was baptized here in 1880.

Jonathan Swift – author of “Gulliver’s Travels” and Dean of St. Patrick’s Cathedral attended services here too.

Molly Malone Statue
Molly Malone’s Famous Statue…

30. What NOT To Do In Dublin…

  • Never tell an Irish person that YOU are also Irish. Maybe your great, great, great, grandmother was, but YOU are American/British/South African.
  • Try avoiding a selfie with the statue of Molly Malone. This is probably the most touristy thing you can do in Dublin…
  • Stay away from Sheriff Street. Despite the name, it’s one of the most dangerous parts of the city. The rest of Dublin isn’t too bad!
  • Never call an Irishman (or Irish woman) British. In fact, try not to mention the UK at all. The Irish are fiercely independent.
  • Don’t expect to drink all night. Most pubs in Dublin actually close at 11:30pm on weeknights and 1am on weekends.

Transportation Around Dublin

Rental Car

The best site to book your car is with Discover Cars. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car and drive in Ireland.

Most people end up renting a car to road trip the rest of the country, but keep in mind driving in Ireland can be a bit wild if it’s your first time.

Bus

Dublin Bus will take you anywhere in the city as well as beautiful coastal towns and villages on the outskirts of the city. Most bus stops have digital timetables that will tell you exactly when your next bus is due to arrive, but don’t forget that they only accept coins!

Train

The DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) is one of the best options for a day trip outside the city centre. This train ride will bring you on a scenic journey to some of Dublin’s most popular suburban towns, including Malahide, Howth, Blackrock, Dún Laoghaire and Dalkey.

Luas

The Luas (Dublin’s light-rail transit service) is a fast and frequent tram system crossing the city on two lines. Tickets for Luas (the Irish word for ‘speed’) must be purchased at the station vending machines.

Taxi

With several taxi ranks situated throughout the city, you’ll never find it difficult to catch a ride. You can also download the Lynk App or MyTaxi App to call a taxi any time of day. Taxi drivers here are the unofficial tour guides of Dublin, and you’ll often have an entertaining journey.

Dublin Bikes

If you want to explore the city and get some exercise, pick up a 3 day Dublin Bikes card. This allows you to easily take a bike from any stations around the city. The ticket is €5 and gives you unlimited 30 minute bike trips.

Rental Cars

Rent A Car In Ireland

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

Dublin Hotels
Jurys Inn, Dublin

Where To Stay In Dublin

Accommodation in Dublin is expensive. There’s just no way around it. Dublin is a small city, so hotels within the city center can charge a premium. Here are some suggestions for good places to stay during your trip to Dublin…


BEST ACCOMMODATION IN DUBLIN


Dublin Travel Tips & Advice

  • Grab a Dublin City Pass to conveniently save money on over 35 different popular tourist attractions around the city.
  • Pick up a Leap Card for 1, 3 or 7 days to pay for all public transport services in Dublin, with fares up to 31% cheaper than individual tickets!
  • The best time to visit Dublin is during the summer months (May to August), with warmer temperatures and tons of festivals. Another good time is March, when the city prepares for Saint Patrick’s Day.
  • Speaking of festivals, some of the best are Electric Picnic, Oktoberfest, Fringe Festival, and Dublin at Christmas. There’s even a Bram Stoker Festival for you vampire fans!
  • Dublin International Airport is about 6 miles away from the city center. The easiest way to get into the city is the Airlink Bus (also known as Route 747). They depart every 15-20 minutes, and cost €6 one way.
Travel Planning Resources For Dublin
Packing Guide
Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip.
Book Your Flight
Ready to fly? Here’s how I find the cheapest airline flights.
Rent A Car
Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.
Cheap Accommodation
Learn how I save money booking hotels & vacation apartments.
Protect Your Trip
Don’t forget travel insurance! Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read why you should always carry travel insurance.

Enjoy This Article? Pin It!


READ MORE IRELAND TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on what to do in Dublin! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:


Any questions about things to do in Dublin? Do you have other suggestions? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Visiting Ireland’s Amazing Cliffs Of Moher (Complete Guide) https://expertvagabond.com/cliffs-of-moher/ Thu, 21 Jan 2016 23:18:03 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=21805 A cold wind blows as I walk along the legendary Cliffs of Moher. Ireland's most famous landmark rises dramatically out of the ocean, waves crashing into rocks far below.

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Cliffs of Moher in Ireland
Cliffs of Moher Visitor’s Guide
Doolin, Ireland

The amazing Cliffs of Moher are one of Ireland’s top travel destinations, and for good reason. Here’s how to visit & enjoy these 700-foot tall coastal cliffs.

A cold wind blows as I walk along the legendary Cliffs of Moher. The most famous natural landmark in Ireland rises dramatically out of the ocean, waves crashing into rocks far below.

“Whoever he is, he’s too late. See?! The Cliffs of Insanity!” ~ Vizzini

A favorite childhood movie of mine used the Cliffs of Moher as a backdrop. The 80’s cult classic The Princess Bride is a crazy fairy tale adventure through the mythical kingdom of Florin.

In one scene, Princess Buttercup’s kidnappers are chased across the ocean by the Man in Black before they climb the steep “mile-high” Cliffs of Insanity.

While not quite a mile high, Ireland’s 700-foot tall Cliffs of Moher are certainly imposing enough to feature them in a few movies — Harry Potter is another one.

Now that I’ve finally seen them on my road trip around Ireland, I can assure you they are even more astounding in person!

Here are some useful tips for traveling to the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland.

Travel Insurance

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft while on vacation. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance!

Ireland's Biggest Cliffs
Views from the Cliffs of Moher

Ireland Cliffs of Moher Travel Guide

Where Are The Cliffs Of Moher?

The Cliffs of Moher are located on the West coast of Ireland near Liscannor village in County Clare. They’re about 90-minutes south of Galway or 3-hours from Dublin by car. The cliffs are the most famous stop on a scenic driving route called the Wild Atlantic Way.

While technically the cliffs are Ireland’s most popular tourist attraction with one million visitors each year, at 5-miles long, there’s plenty of room to explore them without too many people if you enjoy walking.

The Cliffs of Moher visitor’s center was built into the hillside so people can experience the site without intrusive buildings wrecking the view, and a scenic walking path branches out in two directions across the top.

How High Are The Cliffs?

The Cliffs of Moher range in height from 390 feet to 702 feet tall, and are home to over 30,000 birds, including colonies of Atlantic Puffin that usually make an appearance in late March.

Visiting The Cliffs Of Moher

Cliffs Of Moher Tips
The Cliffs of Insanity!

Safety barriers keep you from getting too close to the edge of the cliffs, but only up to a point. If you keep walking away from the the visitor’s center, eventually the barriers end.

Some people risk standing or sitting right on the edge…

I was one of them. However do so at your own risk! There’s often strong winds at the Cliffs of Moher, with freak gusts reportedly blowing people off to their deaths from time to time.

The cliffs are made of Namurian shale & sandstone, which can sometimes crumble without warning due to erosion, creating another danger.

Cliffs of Moher Tower
O’Brien’s Tower

South of the visitor’s center, there’s a beautiful old stone tower from the Napoleonic Wars called Hag’s Head. Walking here from the visitor’s center takes the average person about 1 – 2 hours.

To the north, O’Brien’s Tower marks the highest point of the cliffs. It’s just a short walk away from the visitor’s center, and offers the best views in both directions. You can pay an additional $2 to climb the tower.

Other potential adventures include viewing the cliffs from below on a ferry boat, or hiking the entire 12 mile (20 km) Coastal Walk over the cliffs.

Cliffs of Moher Flowers
Ireland’s Stunning Cliffs

Getting To The Cliffs Of Moher

Rental Car

The best site to book your car is with Discover Cars. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Ireland.

GALWAY – The Cliffs of Moher are 76 km (1.5 hours) from Galway by car.
DUBLIN – The Cliffs of Moher are 276 km (3 hours) from Dublin by car.

By Bus

Bus Éireann has the largest network of routes around the country.

You can also hop on a shuttle bus from Doolin that will stop at the Cliffs of Moher, as well the town of Liscannor.

Rental Cars

Rent A Car In Ireland

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

Best Time To Visit The Cliffs Of Moher

Tourism high-season is usually during the months of July & August making the area quite crowded. However when we visited the cliffs in September, it wasn’t bad at all, especially if you walk out away from the visitor’s center.

Where To Stay Around The Cliffs

The closest towns to Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher are Doolin to the North, and Liscannor to the South. Both are only about 10 minutes away by car. Lahinch is about 15 minutes away.

Here are some suggestions for places to stay around the Cliffs of Moher:


BEST HOTELS IN LAHINCH


Hag's Head Cliffs
Hag’s Head

Tips For Visiting Cliffs Of Moher

  • The Cliffs of Moher parking lot is located across the road from the Visitors’ Center. The center itself is pretty slick, built to blend into the natural landscape. There’s food, a gift shop, and a movie explaining how the cliffs were formed.
  • Weather at the Cliffs of Moher changes quickly! Make sure to pack warm clothing and a rain jacket, just in case. It can get incredibly windy up there (if it is, stay away from the edge).
  • You don’t have to walk too far to enjoy some of the best views. O’brien’s tower is only a 10-minute walk away from the visitor’s center. But, if you want to, you can also spend hours walking along the edge. The further you walk, the fewer people you’ll find.
  • There’s a wooden blockade that separates the tourist area from the farmer’s fields further on. It is perfectly ok to walk beyond this blockade, just be aware that the trail is no longer maintained, and you’re on your own out there.

Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher are famous for a reason! Walking the winding dirt path on the edge of a precipice, its beautiful Atlantic Ocean views & the rugged coastal landscapes are magical…

It’s a truly amazing travel experience to have on the Emerald Isle. ★

Travel Planning Resources For Ireland
Packing Guide
Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip.
Book Your Flight
Ready to fly? Here’s how I find the cheapest airline flights.
Rent A Car
Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.
Cheap Accommodation
Learn how I save money booking hotels & vacation apartments.
Protect Your Trip
Don’t forget travel insurance! Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read why you should always carry travel insurance.

Enjoy This Article? Pin It!


READ MORE IRELAND TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:


Any questions about the Cliffs of Moher? Do you have other suggestions? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

Ireland

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Finding My Roots In Ireland: Family Genealogy Road Trip https://expertvagabond.com/genealogy-trip-ireland/ Tue, 15 Dec 2015 12:08:22 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=21693 It only took me 34 years to visit my family's ancestral homeland of Ireland. Joined by my parents & sister, we traveled to the Emerald Isle to research our history.

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Genealogy in Ireland

Family Genealogy Trip in Ireland

Glengarriff, Ireland

It only took me 34 years to visit my family’s ancestral homeland of Ireland. Joined by my parents & sister, we traveled to the Emerald Isle to research our history.

Like most Americans, I’m a mutt. My family immigrated to the United States from Ireland, Poland, Germany and England. Mostly from Ireland though — including my paternal grandmother.

Concentrating on the side of the family with the most recent links to Ireland, we decided to visit the area where my grandmother was born. A small south-western coastal village called Glengarriff in County Cork.

I was especially excited for this journey, as it was the first time that my family members were going to travel with me internationally, and years since we’d traveled together for any kind of road trip. Woohoo!

O'Neils Bar Dublin

Guinness For Breakfast

Dublin Sights

Dublin Castle

Arriving In Dublin

The first order of business after renting a car at the airport was driving to Dublin and grabbing a large Irish breakfast with a few pints of Guinness at O’Neil’s Bar & Restaurant. At 10am of course. We were off to a good start.

Hey, isn’t that what you’re supposed to do in Ireland?

We spent the rest of the day exploring Dublin by bus and on foot. Everyone was running on little sleep due to the intercontinental flight the night before, so our activities were kept to a minimum.

Dublin Castle

Dublin Castle was originally built as a defensive structure for the city of Dublin, later serving as residence for the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland who governed for the King of England. These days it’s used for presidential inaugurations and state functions.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral is Ireland’s largest church, founded back in 1191. Jonathan Swift (author of Gulliver’s Travels) was once the dean, and is currently buried here. Dublin actually has two cathedrals belonging to the Church of Ireland, the other being Christ Church Cathedral.

Teeling Whiskey Distillery

Most people who visit Dublin go to the Jameson Distillery, which is just a showroom for tourists. The only working Irish Whiskey distillery in Dublin is called Teeling. We watched the whiskey process from start to finish and tasted the difference between single grain, single malt, and age.

READ MORE: 20 Fun Things To Do In Dublin

Cashel Castle Ireland

Rock of Cashel

Colmans Cathedral

Port Town of Cobh

Irish Genealogy Road Trip

Now that we’d experienced a taste of Dublin, it was time to embark on the core mission of this trip. Searching for any information we could find about my grandmother’s life in Ireland before she sailed to Boston in 1930.

Prior to traveling to Ireland, my sister Lindsay had done some research on Ancestry.com which helped us track down basic United States immigration records for my grandmother.

To expand on those, we also enlisted the services of Eneclann, a genealogy research company. They provided a detailed report based on Irish census information with all kinds of interesting facts we’d never known before!

Like that we came from a family of fishermen and farmers.

Armed with this new knowledge we rented a car and began driving southwest across Ireland on the M8 through the town of Cashel and the city of Cork stopping at famous landmarks along the way.

One such landmark is the port town of Cobh, formerly Queenstown, where 2.5 million of the six million Irish people who emigrated to North America left from. Including my grandmother in 1930!

READ MORE: How I Claimed Irish Citizenship By Descent

Glengarriff

Glengarriff, Ireland

Carraig Dubh House

Paudie & Kathleen Connolly

Glengarriff Village

Arriving in Glengarriff after navigating some of Ireland’s notoriously narrow roads, we checked into a quaint local bed & breakfast called Carraig Dubh House perched on a hillside overlooking the town. It was here we met the cheery owners Paudie & Kathleen.

They would be the key to unlocking the mysteries of our quest.

We explained that we were in Glengarriff as part of a genealogy trip, and asked if they might remember my grandmother or her family. Of course they did! In a small town of 800 people, everyone knows everyone.

My aunt had given us an old postcard of Glengarriff from when she visited a while back. It was said to feature the McCarthy family home that my grandmother grew up in.

Glengarriff Ireland

Old Postcard of My Grandmother’s House

Ellen's Rock Glengarriff

We Found It!

Searching For The House

Our hosts took one look at the postcard and confirmed our suspicions. Yes that’s where she grew up, and it still exists! In fact it’s just down the road…

The traditional 3-room Irish home made of stone is located at a place called Ellen’s Rock, a famous spot for photos when Glengarriff was a popular tourist attraction and ocean cruise destination in the early part of the century.

We jumped in the car and headed over to see it for ourselves.

Sitting on the edge of Bantry Bay, the building has seen better days yet was still standing. Turns out it’s owned by my father’s cousin Teddy, a long-lost family member none of us had ever met before.

Our next mission? Track down Teddy and buy him a beer!

Everything seemed to be falling into place perfectly.

Ireland Family Trip

My Dad Meets His Cousin Teddy

Garnish Island Ireland

Garnish Island Gardens

Meeting With Relatives

Teddy keeps the McCarthy family tradition of fishing and sailing alive as a boat captain for the Harbour Queen Ferry. They take tourists out on fishing trips and ferry rides to the beautiful Garnish Island Gardens.

We went down to the docks, but unfortunately just missed him, so we decided to ride the ferry out to Garnish Island and explore the gardens. Motoring past happy seals sunbathing on rocks.

Concluding the island excursion, we surprised Teddy with an unexpected family visit. He seemed a bit taken aback, and not sure how to respond. Who are these strangers from the United States claiming to be relatives?

We made plans to meet later that evening at The Cottage Bar, a favorite local watering hole in town. Hopefully we would all get to know each other a bit better over a few pints of Guinness.

Glengarriff Church

Sacred Heart Church in Glengarriff

Glengarriff Cemetery

McCarthy Family Plot

Learning Family History

Teddy brought his wife Abigail to join us at the bar. Luckily she acted as a translator too, his thick Irish accent difficult for us Yankees to understand! We learned that Teddy likes to work on old boats, just as my father does.

My great grandfather Timothy was apparently a fisherman & boatman. He boasted the most groomed mustache in town, and was always seen wearing his favorite bright white pea cap.

My sister Lindsay apparently looks just like Teddy’s daughter Marie.

One mystery we never solved is why my grandmother sailed from Ireland to the United States on her own when she was only 17 years old. Everyone we spoke with seemed to remember her siblings, but almost nothing about her.

The town church and local cemetery was our next stop, paying respect at my great grandfather’s grave and chatting with the local priest. My grandmother’s birth was never registered in official county documents, but we did have her baptismal record from the church.

Father Michael Moynihan explained to us over coffee that this was common in those days, as many people from the countryside didn’t bother to travel to the city to register their children so soon after birth, and often forgot to later.

Sheep in Ireland

Irish Traffic Jam

Ireland Road Trip

Learning to Drive on the Right

Exploring Ireland

Towering Cliffs of Moher

Wild Atlantic Way

Overwhelmed with all that we had learned in just a few days, it was time to say our goodbyes and continue our Irish road trip up the West coast along the Wild Atlantic Way.

The complete route stretches 2,500km (1553 miles), however we were driving the southern section up through Dingle and on to Galway before heading back across the country to the capital. I’ll go into more detail in future posts, but the highlights for me were Slea Head Drive and the Cliffs of Moher.

Driving in Ireland can take some getting used to! The back roads are super narrow with no shoulder to pull off on, locals drive fast, curves are sharp, and sheep are plentiful.

But by the 3rd or 4th day I started to get the hang of it. A good trick is to buy the “learner” sticker sold at gas stations so locals don’t get pissed at your incompetence on their roads.

Overall I’d say our Irish genealogy road trip was a success. Together we teamed up to track down relatives, learn about our heritage, and experience a little Irish culture, food, drink, and hospitality.

Ireland’s coastal landscapes are breathtaking to see in person. It was a memorable journey, and I’m happy I experienced it with my family. ★

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Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Ireland
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READ MORE IRELAND TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my story on finding my roots in Ireland! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

Have you ever been on a family genealogy trip before? Do you want to? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

Ireland

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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