Badakhshan, Afghanistan

I spent 2-weeks exploring the remote mountains of Afghanistan on a backpacking trip. Not your typical vacation destination, but one of my favorite travel experiences to date. Here’s a glimpse of the beauty of Afghanistan.

What comes to mind when you think about Afghanistan? War? Terrorism? Osama Bin Laden? The Taliban? Poppy fields? The Burqa?

While much of Afghanistan is still dangerous — there’s also incredible beauty, hospitality and kindness that doesn’t get reported on there.

It’s far too easy to vilify or write-off an entire nation when you don’t have to look those people in the eyes. People with the same hopes and dreams as you — to simply survive, find happiness and provide for their families.

I was able to experience the positive side of Afghanistan and its wonderful people, up close and personal, during my trip in the summer of 2016 as an American tourist. It’s since become my most memorable travel adventure to date.

Here are some of my favorite photos of people & landscapes from my 100-mile backpacking trip into Afghanistan’s remote and mountainous Wakhan Corridor in Badakhshan Province.

Witness the “other” side of Afghanistan that you don’t see in the news.

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Afghanistan Photo Essay

Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor

The Wakhan is a rugged and wild region of Northeast Afghanistan, part of Badakhshan Province. It’s a narrow piece of land, about 400 km long, surrounded on three sides by Tajikistan, China, and Pakistan.

Two large mountain ranges dominate the area, the Pamir in the North, and the Hindu Kush in the South. The Wakhan Corridor was created by politicians in the 1800’s during the “Great Game” in an attempt to leave a buffer zone between British India and the Russian empire.

Remote Mountain Trekking

During my hiking adventure in Afghanistan we traveled primarily on foot, but I also managed to hitch a ride on a yak for a portion of the route after running into a group of Wakhi men leading their yaks through the mountains.

While they stopped for tea, they let us borrow their yaks, which we led further into the valley — until their owners caught up with us later.

Yaks are the ultimate Eco-friendly 4×4 in Afghanistan, able to climb steep rocky terrain and power through icy cold rivers. There are no trees above 10,000 feet, so locals are forced to trek for 3-days to lower elevations with their animals in order to gather firewood for cooking and warmth.

Afghanistan’s Ancient Silk Road

The Wakhan region in Afghanistan was once part of the ancient silk road, an important trading route connecting China to Europe. Along with silk, horses, and other goods, it was a highway for armies and explorers too. Explorers like Marco Polo who is believed to have passed through here during the 13th century.

Crossing steep mountain passes and high desolate plateaus, passing caravans of yaks and donkeys loaded with goods, spending the night in stone shelters with traveling merchants — I felt like I was getting a glimpse of what the silk road must have been like all those years ago.

READ MORE: 17 Useful Travel Photography Tips

The Many Faces Of Islam

Just like the many different branches of Christianity, there are many different branches of Islam, all with their own beliefs and values. Many people living in Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor are Ismaili Muslims, who practice a moderate form of Islam. They number 25 million worldwide, and despise the Taliban.

Their spiritual leader is the Aga Khan, a successful British businessman and Imam who runs the Aga Khan Development Network, a super important charity organization that improves living conditions and opportunities for the poor in Africa and Central Asia.

Untamed Blue Rivers

The Wakhan River runs through the Wakhan Corridor, fed by the high altitude mountains of the Hindu Kush on the border with Pakistan. It snakes its way through the mountains and is a major lifeline for the people living in this harsh and unforgiving landscape.

The bright blue color of this water is due to reddish hues of the rock formations around it, as well as the crystal clear source (a glacier). Water molecules absorb other colors, like red, more efficiently than blue.

READ MORE: How To Pick A Travel Backpack

Epic Afghanistan Landscapes

When the weather was clear, I was rewarded with incredible views of the mountains like this! The trail was well worn, as it’s used daily by small groups of locals who travel in caravans of yaks or donkeys from settlement to settlement.

The 10 day trek ranged in altitude from 10,000 to 16,000 feet, and we averaged about 10 miles per day of hiking. I began to feel the effects of altitude on my body around 12,000 feet with shortness of breath. At 16,000 feet hiking became even more tiring and difficult.

The Roof Of The World

The Kyrgyz people of Afghanistan are semi-nomadic, moving from valley to valley herding their animals to different grazing pastures depending on the season. They live in cozy yurts made of sheep felt, which can be broken down and transported long distances.

Each settlement consists of 2-3 families living and working together. Originally from the area around Kyrgyzstan, their ancestors were kind of trapped in the Wakhan after the Soviets took over Central Asia, forcibly settled nomadic tribes, and sealed off the silk road route.

READ MORE: How To Visit The Afghan Wakhan

Salty Yak Milk Tea

Both the Wakhi and Kyrgyz people drink large amounts of salty milk tea, called Sheer Chai. It’s served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Basically, it’s a mix of yak and goat milk, boiled down for hours and dried into a portable block. It’s prepared by adding boiling water, loose-leaf tea, and rock salt.

The salt is great for rehydration at high & dry altitudes — I called it my Afghan Gatorade. It took a while to get used to (salty hot milk anyone?), but by the end of the adventure my body was craving sheer chai for every meal. You can also dissolve raw butter into the tea at breakfast for extra calories.

Ancient Afghan Petroglyphs

Near the end of my 2nd day on the trail, we hiked past a set of ancient petroglyphs scrawled into a dark colored boulder overlooking the valley. My local guide, Yar, couldn’t tell me much about them, other than they think these markings are a few thousand years old.

They depict hunting scenes, men armed with what appear to be bows, as well as large game like ibex and the rare Marco Polo sheep. This was just one of many petroglyphs that dot the landscape in these mountains. They are thought to mark ancient hunting grounds claimed by different tribes.

Schools In Afghanistan

This simple 3 room school in the remote Afghan village of Bozai Gumbaz was built by Greg Mortenson and his Central Asia Institute. You may have heard of Greg before, he’s the author of the best selling novel Three Cups Of Tea, about building schools for girls in Pakistan.

The school at Bozai Gumbaz, where I spent the night playing cards with Afghan army soldiers, was prominent in his 2nd book, Stones To Schools. The next morning a group of boys showed up on donkeys for class. I saw many CAI schools along the road from Eshkashim to Sarhad-e Broghil.

Backcountry Camping In Afghanistan

As a big fan of the outdoors, one of the highlights on this trip was the opportunity to wild camp in the mountains of Afghanistan. Most nights we were able to stay at small Wakhi or Kyrgyz settlements in basic guest huts, but we also camped out in tents a few nights too.

Normally I’m a camping hammock kind of guy, but because I knew there weren’t going to be any trees for most of this trek, I packed my super lightweight Nemo Hornet 2P Tent. It snowed a few times during the journey — in August!

READ MORE: My Complete Travel Gear Guide

As-Salāmu ʿAlaykum

I was constantly greeted with As-salāmu ʿalaykum which means “peace be upon you”. A shorter version of this is just salām. Shaking hands is common, and so is placing your hand on your heart, which simply means your greeting comes from the heart.

Another important term I used during my journey is taschakor, meaning thank you. I always recommend trying to learn 10 of the most used words in a local language before traveling there. In the Afghan Wakhan, most people speak some Dari (Farsi) along with local dialects.

Women In Afghanistan

Many people were asking if I saw women in Afghanistan. Yes I saw women during my trip, but most were extremely shy, especially if I had my camera out. Plus in their culture, talking with strange men is taboo. But shooting portraits of men or kids was not a problem.

Near the border town of Sultan Eshkashim, with a large Sunni population, many women wear a full-length blue burqa that covers their face. In more rural areas of the Wakhan, it’s less strict. Women wear long colorful dresses with a simple headscarf. I was able to say hello and see their faces.

Afghan Shrines & Tombs

I encountered a few ancient burial tombs during my time exploring the Wakhan Corridor. Near the Afghan military outpost of Bozai Gumbaz, there’s a collection of strangely shaped Kyrgyz beehive tombs, along with evidence of Soviet bombing (craters, bomb fragments) from the 1980’s occupation.

At the settlement of Langar, we found a pile of ibex horns marking the burial place of a powerful big man. In Afghanistan, wealthy & powerful men are often called “big men”. It’s a bit like calling someone “boss.” The more animals, land, and wives you have, the “bigger” & more influential you are.

Some Very Rough Roads…

Before I began the 10 day, 100 mile trek through the mountains, I had to hire a 4×4 van to drive me to the last village at the end of the road. We passed a few military checkpoints along the way, stopping for tea & candy with officials before continuing on.

The drive took 2 days, and the roads were some of the worst I’ve ever seen. Dust seeped into the vehicle, covering us in dirt. We forded rivers, drove along the edge of sheer cliffs, and were frequently stopped by huge herds of goats blocking the road. The van suffered 6 flat tires during the journey.

Staying At Wakhi Settlements

While I entered Afghanistan alone, I decided to hire a local translator/guide and horseman to accompany me on the trek into the mountains. It would have been extremely difficult to communicate with others without their help. We spent a few nights at Wakhi settlements during the hike.

Wakhi homes are basically stone huts with dirt floors, constructed using manure for cement. The roof is made of logs, grass, and more manure to keep it waterproof. Some shelters had stoves inside, others just had a fire pit. Either way it was pretty smokey inside with a fire…

Children Of The Wakhan

Life in the Wakhan is rough, especially for kids. About 60% of children here die before the age of five, the highest infant mortality rate in the world. If they do survive, they are put to work helping out with the family business — animal herding.

There are a few schools out here, thanks to the Central Asia Institute, but it’s up to the parents if they go. In some communities, only the boys are sent to school. The morning commute can take a few hours by donkey due to the lack of roads and distance between settlements.

Wildlife In Afghanistan

I was really hoping to see a snow leopard or Marco Polo sheep while I was traveling through the mountains of Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. You know, Walter Mitty style! Unfortunately both of these endangered animals are extremely difficult to spot — but I did find camels!

Luckily the Wildlife Conservation Society has staff in the area, often spending weeks in the field gathering data to protect wildlife in the Wakhan. They estimate there are about 100-200 snow leopards living in these mountains. Wolves and bears also call this wilderness home.

A Glimpse Of The Other Afghanistan

So there you go. A peek at the other side of Afghanistan that we never see on the nightly news. After traveling the world extensively for the past 6 years, I’ve noticed this is a common theme.

Don’t let our media, which is primarily focused on negative & sensational topics, be your only window into the dynamics of a foreign country you’ve never been to.

I’m not going to tell you that Afghanistan is safe. It’s not. Our troops who’ve served there can tell you. Afghans themselves are well aware of the dangers that plague their country too.

But I think there’s another side to Afghanistan that deserves some attention. The rugged, scenic mountain landscapes. The friendly, hospitable local people.

I’m hopeful for the day when Afghanistan’s problems fade away, and more travelers can safely enjoy the beauty this incredible country has to offer. ★

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READ MORE TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my Afghanistan photos! Hopefully you also found this post useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

• How To Visit The Wakhan Corridor
• Top Travel Quotes For Wanderlust
• Great Compact Cameras For Traveling
• 40 Travel Jobs For Digital Nomads
• How To Become A Digital Nomad

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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Venice, Italy

Venice Carnival has been canceled due to the worldwide pandemic, but you can experience it vicariously through my favorite photos from this colorful Italian celebration.

Typically, people wear masks during Venice Carnival to celebrate an annual tradition of lavish parties and parades in the ancient Italian city of Venice.

This year, everyone is still wearing masks, but for a different reason.

Italy’s Carnevale di Venezia would have started this week, if it weren’t for the devastating worldwide pandemic. Last year, Carnival was canceled after only 3-days, as the severity of COVID-19 began to emerge.

During the last full Carnival celebration back in 2019 (which feels so long ago!), while living in Italy, my wife Anna & I hopped on a train from Verona to check out this famous Venice festival for a few days in February.

Below you’ll find a collection of my best pictures from Venice Carnival, if you’d like to get a glimpse of what the festival is like!

Hopefully it will give you a little travel inspiration for when it’s safe to jump on a plane to Italy again in the future.

1. History Of Venice Carnival

Modeled after ancient Greek and Roman festivals, the Carnival of Venice is a holiday that allowed regular citizens to dress up in anonymous costumes, making fun of the aristocracy without fear.

The history of Carnival dates back to 1094, when Doge Vitale Falier first mentioned the word “carnevale” in a document as a way of describing public amusements.

2. Shrove Tuesday Holiday

In 1162 the Republic of Venice defeated Ulrico, Patriarch of Aquileia, in a battle that year and slaughtered a bull and twelve pigs in Piazza San Marco to commemorate the victory. This celebration was around Shrove Tuesday (the day before Lent).

However Carnevale di Venezia wasn’t officially recorded until 1268. And the following year, the Senate declared the day before Lent a public holiday.

3. Carnival Was Canceled In The Past…

The anonymity of Carnival eventually backfired, allowing criminals to get away with all kinds of crimes behind the masks, and it was banned for almost two centuries in 1798 when the city was under Austrian rule.

Venice Carnival was also outlawed under the fascist Italian government during the 1930s. It eventually came back though, in 1979.

While Rome usually gets all the attention of tourists, the Italian government wanted to better promote the history and culture of Venice. Now the festival gets about 3 million visitors each year!

4. Venice Carnival On A Budget

Traveling to Venice during Carnival can be expensive, as the city’s hotels are booked up months in advance, renting cool costumes starts at around €200 per day, and the fancy costume dinner parties and evening balls can run €500 a ticket.

However you can visit Carnivale on a budget, like we did, if you go mid-week, buy a simple mask, and just enjoy all the free activities. There are some free concerts, plays, and public events — plus of course just walking around and admiring all the crazy costumes!

5. Traditional Venetian Masks

While people wear all sorts of masks to Carnival these days, there are a handful of traditional style masks that have been worn for centuries. These include the Bauta, Moretta, Gnaga, Medico della Pesta, Pantalone, Arlechino, and Colombina.

Medico della Pesta, aka “The Plague Doctor”, started off as an actual piece of medical equipment (old-school PPE!) used in Venice during the Plague. The Black Death hit the city hard, and from 1629-1631 it killed 46,000 people (out of 140,000 people, so about 33% of the population.)

Venice is no stranger to pandemics, that’s for sure. And the dark history of this period lives on in the masks that are worn during Carnival.

6. When Is Venice Carnival?

The Venice Carnival celebration is held each year in the winter, usually in early February, sometimes late January. The celebration lasts about 2-weeks, with many of the highlights happening on weekends.

We visited Carnival during the middle of the week, and while we missed out on some of the big parades, we also avoided most of the huge crowds this city is known for. I was expecting it to be much more busy than it was!

7. The Gnaga Mask

The Gnaga Mask resembles a female cat, traditionally worn by men disguised as women. Often worn with women’s clothing and a basket under the arm, which usually (during the 18th century) contained a REAL kitten.

The wearer would behave like a plebeian courtesan, uttering acute sounds and mocking “meows”. The creativity and detail of some of these costumes was amazing! This Gnaga mask was covered in fur, and I suspect the wearer made this costume her-(him?)self. See the stuffed cat in the basket?

8. Venice Carnival Activities & Events

There are many cool events, parades, and other activities to do during Venice Carnival, here’s a list of some of the most popular ones:

• Flight Of The Angel
• Daily Costume Parades
• Best Mask Contest
• Free Vivaldi Concert
• Doge’s Courtesan Ball

9. Getting Around Venice

Most people enter Venice through the Piazzale Roma bus/train terminal after taking a bus from the airport, or Stazione di Venezia train station if they arrived by train. From there, you can hop on a public Vaporetto water taxi to get to your hotel.

Venice also has private water taxis (motoscafi) that cost a bit more, but make you look super cool cruising in a wooden speedboat down the canals.

Finally, there is the Traghetto, a sort of public gondola (pictured above) that takes people from one side of a canal to the other. There are a handful of traghetto piers if you keep your eye out for them, and rides cost €4 EURO.

10. Colombina Style Masks

One of the first actresses in the Commedia dell’arte, an early form of professional theater from Italy, though her face was too beautiful to cover completely, so she wore a half-mask. The mask type quickly became popular and now you’ll find them decorated feathers, crystals, plus gold & silver leaf.

11. Gondola Docks At Sunrise

The gondola docks at St. Mark’s Square are one of the top photography spots in Venice, and getting up at sunrise during Carnival I was pleasantly surprised to find all kinds of costumed people posing for photographers as the sun came up behind them with a backdrop of cotton-candy skies.

12. St. Mark’s Square

Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark’s Square, is the heart of Venice during Carnival. It is Venice’s main public square, and the location of many public events and local landmarks. During Carnival, they put on free shows for the public that include jugglers, acrobats and musicians.

13. Getting Lost In Venice Neighborhoods

14. Some Matching Costumes

The tradition of wearing masks during Carnival was to hide your social status. That way the ultra rich and poor could mingle & party together.

Similar to Halloween in the United States, you are free to dress up and act out a fantasy while hiding behind the mask — and pretend to be someone else without judgment.

15. Super Expensive Costumes

Many people rent costumes in Venice for the Carnival, which typically start around €200 for men’s costumes and around €350 for women’s costumes (per day). That price doesn’t include a wig, mask or other accessories either, so it gets expensive!

Others spend all year (or years) putting together their own costumes, some of which can cost thousands of dollars. Some of the costumes we saw there were absolutely wild.

16. Where To Buy Authentic Venetian Masks

If you want to buy a REAL Venetian-made mask, don’t buy the cheap ones at little street vendor shops, go to one of the professional mask makers’ shops in Venice. You’ll pay more, but they’re so much better. Here are some recommendations:

• Benor Maschere Venezia in the Santa Croce neighborhood
• Ca’ Macana in the Dorsoduro neighborhood
• Mondonovo Maschere in the Dorsoduro neighborhood

17: Modern Carnivale Monster

You don’t need to be dressed in a classic, traditional costume for Carnival in Venice. There are plenty of people wearing more modern costumes, like this guy.

18: The Golden Jester

This white covered bridge that spans the canal is one of Venice’s most famous landmarks — The Bridge of Sighs. “Ponte dei Sospiri” was built in 1641 as an entry point to the world’s first Prison.

The name refers to the “sighs” of prisoners looking out the small windows at their last view of freedom before getting locked away.

19. Costumes & Ancient City Streets

20. Tips For Photographing Venice Carnival

While it’s difficult to take a bad photo in Venice, during Carnival, there are certain popular locations where you’ll find all the best costumes.

• The Waterfront Promenade (in front of Palazzo Ducale) is especially cool at sunrise and sunset, as everyone wants their photo taken by the water’s edge.
• San Marcos (Saint Mark’s) Square, especially under the pillars of Palazzo Ducale (Doge Palace).
• The Bridge Of Sighs is a unique enclosed bridge of white limestone spanning the Rio di Palazzo canal.

To get images of people in costumes without huge crowds around, get out and explore at sunrise. Even though its early, you’ll still find many of the most beautiful costumed people out and about, because it’s the best time for photos (and they know it).

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Antarctica Photo Essay

Visiting Antarctica has been a dream of mine ever since I started traveling, and it finally became a reality. Here are some of my favorite Antarctica pictures from our trip!

I recently returned from a 20-day Antarctic cruise to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and the Antarctic Peninsula with Quark Expeditions.

From beautiful white-sand beaches on the Falkland Islands, to the incredible wildlife colonies of South Georgia, and of course the icebergs and mountains of Antarctica itself — I shot well over 6000 photos during the entire journey.

Below you’ll find a collection of my best pictures of Antarctica mixed in with images from the other spectacular & remote islands we visited along the way.

While photography can never truly capture the unreal experience of seeing Antarctica in person, I hope these photos will inspire you to visit the world’s 7th continent someday!

Map Of Our Antarctic Voyage

1. Proud King Penguins

Did you know there are 17 different species of penguins around the world? You can find 8 types of penguins in Antarctica and the surrounding islands. These are King penguins, known for the vivid orange color on their heads and chests. They are very large penguins, about 3 feet tall.

We found this group of kings strolling across a section of sand dunes on Saunder’s Island in the Falklands, the first stop on our voyage. I have hundreds of penguin photos, but this one is my favorite. They look like they’re dressed in suits commuting to work. On the beach! In formation with a purpose.

2. Melting Antarctic Glaciers

One of the most striking parts of visiting Antarctica for me was the number of glaciers. Imposing walls of ice & snow hanging precariously off the edge of the continent. Occasionally we’d hear the CRACK! from a large piece splitting off and calving into the sea.

One of my Antarctica photography goals was to capture a calving glacier on film, and after spending wayyyyy too much time trying, I luckily managed to do it (which I’ll be sharing soon)! Unfortunately Antarctica’s glaciers are melting at an unprecedented pace due to climate change.

3. Nesting Gentoo Penguins

This is Useful Island, a small island just off the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. It’s home to a colony of Gentoo penguins. The penguins feed on a combination of krill, fish, and squid — all of which are plentiful in these waters.

Gentoo penguins prefer to make their circular nests on bare rocks around the Antarctic, using small pebbles and stones. Sometimes one penguin steals stones from his neighbor’s nest when they aren’t looking, and it’s pretty funny to watch!

4. Antarctica’s Iceberg Islands

I have a fascination with icebergs. These large chunks of ice that have fallen off glaciers can float across the ocean for 10 years or more, and come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. The iceberg picture opportunities in Antarctica are awesome!

I’m sure you know that about 90% of an iceberg is actually hidden beneath the water’s surface. We were not allowed to get too close to them, because they often flip or break apart violently and without warning, making them dangerous.

5. Dirty Chinstrap Penguins

Chinstrap Penguins are named after the black neckband that makes it look like they’re always grinning. These little penguins can be found most often near the Antarctic coastline, but will also hitch a ride out on icebergs floating into the middle of the sea.

You can always tell which penguins are taking care of the nest, and which have just returned from hunting in the ocean by how dirty they are. This group has obviously been on nest duty for a while!

6. Stunning Antarctic Sunsets

The Antarctic tourist season lasts from November to March, which is summertime in the Southern Hemisphere. Because you are so far South, the sun sets much later than normal. Around 11pm in November when we were visiting.

While you might be super tired from all the fun daytime activities during a trip to Antarctica, I highly recommend heading out on the ship’s deck to catch the amazingly colorful (and long) sunsets for some great photos!

7. Funny Rockhopper Penguins

More penguins! This is the Southern Rockhopper, named after its signature “hopping” style to get around, rather than the typical penguin waddle. With blood red eyes, an orange beak, pink feet and those crazy yellow tufts of feathers around the eyes, this penguin stands out!

They breed amongst tall tussock grasses on rocky coastlines of islands in the Southern Hemisphere and around Antarctica. We came upon this colony in the Falkland Islands. Rockhoppers return to the same breeding ground, and even nest, every year. They try to locate the same mate too!

8. Humpback Whales Feeding

What kind of camera gear did I bring to shoot photos in Antarctica? Along with my Sony A7R III, I decided to rent a 2nd camera body (Sony A7 III) from LensRentals.com. I also rented a 100-400mm telephoto lens to capture close-up wildlife shots like this humpback whale tail.

This way, I could have a wide 24mm-70mm lens on one camera, and the telephoto lens on the other. Always ready for action. When a humpback is about to deep-dive & show off its tail, it will arch its back more than normal. Giving you a few extra seconds to prepare for the “money shot” in advance.

9. Rare Macaroni Penguins

Very similar looking to Rockhoppers, witnessing Macaroni penguins during our Antarctica trip was a special treat, because they can often be difficult to find. Macaronis prefer to nest on very remote and exposed rock outcroppings that are challenging for humans to reach.

Luckily our ship’s wildlife expert happened to discover a colony, and we used our zodiac boats to maneuver in close. They were named “Macaroni” after the 18th-century English fashion of wearing outlandish clothing & wigs!

10. Falkland’s Albatross Colony

The Falkland Islands are a birder’s paradise. While I’m not a bird fanatic myself, many guests on our expedition were. However even I couldn’t deny how cool the Black-browed Albatross is. It’s a very loud, and very large sea bird! Their wing span can reach up to 8 feet (2.5 m).

Watching them preen and look after their single egg on nests made of mud and grass along the edge of the ocean was a special treat. There were thousands of them, sharing the breeding ground with a colony of Rockhopper penguins who were also nesting there.

11. Sea Kayaking In Antarctica

Yes, you can go kayaking in Antarctica! Our ship offered 2 options, traditional sea kayaking in a hard-shell kayak, or an inflatable sit-on-top kayak. Both options require you to wear what’s called a “dry-suit” that’s basically a waterproof suit covering warm layers underneath.

Kayaking in Antarctica allows you to get away from the ship and the zodiac boats, so you can really experience the profound silence in this remote part of the world. Gliding quietly over the surface of the ocean past icebergs, watching seals and penguins swim beside you.

12. Playful Orcas (Killer Whales)

Orcas (Killer Whales) are truly the top of the food chain. Did you know they attack and kill Great White sharks just to eat their livers?! We got crazy lucky and were able to watch a large pod feed swimming around us, then started to chase a group of penguins too!

This image is a single frame from a GoPro video I shot underwater at the end of a long pole, as one of the Orcas swam by our boat to take a closer look at us. It was one of the most amazing wildlife moments I’ve ever experienced during my travels so far. Make sure to watch the full video at the end of this article!

13. Blood Thirsty Ducks?

Meet the South Georgia Pintail, a small & curious duck that calls the sub antarctic region home. Yes a duck! And not just any duck, this thing has an appetite for raw meat. Along with algae, it eats shrimp, clams, snails, and likes to pick through the dead carcasses of seals.

South Georgia Pintails were once threatened by the introduction of rats to the island which often ate their eggs, as well as whale hunters who would eat the birds themselves. They’ve made a comeback though, now that whaling is illegal on and around South Georgia.

14. Fighting Elephant Seals

Elephant seals are BIG animals! Males can reach 20 feet long and weigh up to 8000 pounds (4 tons!) I caught these two young males fighting each other pretty aggressively, and drawing blood, as a sea of penguins watched.

Dominant male elephant seals collect a harem of 40-50 females, fighting off other males who attempt to infiltrate the group. At one time these animals were on the brink of extinction due to over-hunting for their blubber, but with legal protections their numbers have returned to normal.

15. Rugged Mountain Ranges

Antarctica isn’t just a massive sheet of ice. It also boasts large (and beautiful) mountain ranges, like the Antarctandes pictured here at our stop in Paradise Harbour. There are three notable ranges that spread across the continent: the Transantarctic Mountains, the Antarctandes and the Sentinel Range.

The highest mountain in Antarctica is Mount Vinson at 16,405 feet (4892m). It’s part of the famous “7 Summits” challenge that some hardcore climbers (with a lot of money) attempt to complete for bragging rights.

16. Small Adélie Penguins

This was the only time we were able to see this type of penguin on our trip. Adelie penguins are very small, only about 2 feet tall. They spend their time on the Antarctic continent and the surrounding islands, but in the winter they stay offshore around the pack ice.

Adelie’s may travel up to 185 miles just for a single meal, and they’re excellent swimmers. They generally lay 2 eggs, taking turns keeping them warm. This species is one that’s actually thriving, and their numbers have more than doubled in recent years.

17. Epic South Georgia Landscapes

I know I said this was a showcase of pictures from Antarctica, but I’m sure you’ve noticed quite a few images without much snow in them. While visiting Antarctica was amazing, our time at the remote island of South Georgia was equally special.

Located about 2500 miles (4,150 km) away from Antarctica, and South Georgia is teeming with wildlife. Along with a very impressive collection of mountains, glaciers, and icebergs of its own. Adding South Georgia to an Antarctica trip makes the voyage much longer and more expensive, but I think it was worth it.

18. Earnest Shackleton’s Grave

If you haven’t read the book Endurance about Earnest Shackleton’s failed Antarctic expedition of 1914, put it at the top of your travel book reading list! Shackleton led an expedition to cross Antarctica that was scrapped when their ship was destroyed by crushing sea ice.

He then led his team over the frozen ocean to safety, rowed 1300km to South Georgia (where he’s now buried), and crossed treacherous mountains to launch a rescue mission. Everyone survived despite impossible odds, and unimaginable difficulty. One of the best adventure stories of all time.

19. Antarctica Research Station

This is Brown Station, an Argentine scientific research station on Coughtrey Peninsula in Antarctica. Established in 1951, it was burned down in the 80’s by the station’s doctor to protest an order to spend the winter there. One of a handful of crimes committed in Antarctica.

These days the rebuilt station is only open during the summer, and is also used as a popular landing spot for Antarctic cruises like ours. It’s home to a colony of Gentoo penguins, and has scenic lookouts you can hike up to with great views of Antarctica’s stunning Paradise Harbour.

20. Abandoned Whaling Boat

Whaling was a very profitable operation in the waters around Antarctica during the early 20th century. Whales were numerous down here, and “easy” to catch. The resulting whale oil was sold for use in lighting, lubrication, and leather tanning. It could also be hardened and turned into margarine and soap.

This old rusting “whale catcher” at Grytviken Station in South Georgia is a relic of that industry — look closely and you’ll see the harpoon at the bow and the crows nest on the mast, where sailors sat to spot whales. Thankfully whaling is now illegal here, and populations have been slowly making a comeback.

21. Half A Million Penguins!

St Andrews Bay in South Georgia is home to a massive colony of King Penguins, over 250,000 breeding pairs. Penguin colonies are measured in “breeding pairs” because at any one time, half the penguins might be at sea fishing, and many baby penguins might not make it through the winter.

So in reality there are over 500,000 penguins living here. One of the first things that struck me after landing at St. Andrews was the sheer volume of sound from all these birds chatting away together! I’ve never experienced anything like it.

22. Fluffy Baby Penguin Chicks

This is a baby King Penguin. It looks completely different than its parents, brown and fluffy with soft down feathers to keep it warm in the wind. King Penguins have one of the longest breeding cycles of any bird at 16 months.

During the harsh winter, penguin chicks will have to stand around in the cold for weeks waiting for their parents to return from the ocean with a meal. Many don’t make it, and only the strongest survive.

23. Aggressive Fur Seals

No, there are no polar bears in Antarctica. But there IS an animal you have to be careful of — fur seals! You’ll find these guys all over the place, and navigating through them can be a challenge. While they may look cute, they have no problem charging you (or taking a bite) if you get too close.

Fur seals have very sharp teeth, and are extremely territorial. One of our guides actually got bitten in the leg during our Antarctica trip. Luckily he had many layers on, and no skin was broken. But a fur seal bite can quickly get infected, so it’s important to keep your distance from these guys.

24. Antarctica Expedition Ship

We traveled to Antarctica on the Ocean Endeavour, a 30-year old ship built in Poland and leased to Quark Expeditions. There were 199 passengers and 115 crew members. While you could certainly feel the motion of the ocean under your feet, overall it was a pretty mellow journey. Even the notorious Drake Passage was calm!

The ship had great food, plenty of deck space, a spa, gym, sauna, and even a heated pool! The cabins were cozy but comfortable. There was free WhatsApp messaging, or you could purchase a full WiFi package for $100 that worked pretty well for uploading photos (not video though).

25. The Polar Plunge!

You can’t visit Antarctica without attempting the infamous polar plunge! Because what sane person wouldn’t want to strip down and dive into the icy ocean surrounding Antarctica? While it sounds crazy, diving into 33F degree water with icebergs floating by wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be.

Yes, it shocks your body, but not so badly that you can’t think clearly. And with the amount of endorphins and adrenaline pumping through your veins, you barely feel the cold once you get out! In fact, I felt AMAZING afterwards.

Ready To Visit Antarctica?

I hope my photos of Antarctica have helped inspire you to visit one day in the future! How does one visit Antarctica you ask? Well, it’s not cheap.

Trips to Antarctica cost between $5000 – $12,000 (or more) depending on the length of the trip, number of stops, the operator, and other details. We saved up for a while & paid for it ourselves.

There are ways to save money on a trip to Antarctica though, for example by booking your trip very early. We booked our voyage with Quark Expeditions a full year in advance!

The Environmental Impact

Cruise ships are not environmentally friendly — at all. So traveling to Antarctica was a tough decision for me.

While Quark has a track record of offsetting their carbon emissions, and I offset my own portion (air and ship travel) with a donation to the Antarctic & Southern Ocean Coalition, we are still leaving an impact by visiting.

There are very strict regulations regarding tourism in Antarctica and the surrounding islands governed by an organization called IAATO.

We had to clean our own boots, pants, and backpacks before and after every landing to avoid contaminating the area with foreign plants, insects, or bacteria. Only 100 people are allowed to land at one time too.

While no tourism is perfectly environmentally friendly, I felt better about my trip after witnessing how seriously they take the “leave no trace” attitude. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Travel Photography from Tanzania

Tanzania Photo Essay

Here’s a collection of my favorite photos from our safari trip in Tanzania. We managed to see all big five safari animals, hiked to a beautiful waterfall, and met with local tribes.

Last December Anna and I visited Tanzania for our honeymoon, heading out on safari with Soul Of Tanzania. We began our adventure from the town of Arusha, flying into the Serengeti in a small plane.

We then spent a week bumping around on red dusty roads in a Land Rover exploring Africa’s Serengeti National Park, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Lake Manyara, and Lake Eyasi.

During the course of the trip we managed to locate all “Big Five” safari animals, journey through the savannah, into green forests, an extinct volcanic crater, and along massive shallow lakes.

Tanzania’s wildlife and geography is as diverse as its people, and finally getting to visit the Serengeti itself was quite a treat, as it’s the world’s most famous National Park.

If you’ve ever dreamed about going on safari in Tanzania, these images should give you a glimpse of what the experience is like!

1: Lake Manyara Flamingos

Flamingos Take Flight Over Lake Manyara

Lake Manyara National Park lies on the edge of the Rift Valley, attracting thousands of pink flamingoes to its brackish waters. Surrounding the lake is a large grassy floodplain, and groundwater forests beyond that.

We stopped for lunch along some algae-streaked hot springs, with a boardwalk leading out over the lake. From there you could watch the huge flocks of flamingos stoop and graze in the water.

Occasionally, they’d all leap into the air and take flight together as a moving wall of pink and black feathers. It was quite a sight!

Did you know that flamingos are actually grey, and get their pink color from a diet of brine shrimp and blue-green algae? The alpha and beta carotenoids in the food they eat is what turns them pink.

2: Visiting The Maasai Mara

Sokoine Shows Us Around His Village

There are about 800,000 Maasai Mara living in Tanzania, many around the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. I’d always wanted to visit the Maasai, so we stopped by the village of Endyoi Nasiyi as we left the Serengeti.

Maintaining a traditional pastoral lifestyle has become increasingly difficult for the Maasai. With their cattle grazing lands diminishing, they’ve become dependent on purchasing food like sorghum, rice, potatoes and cabbage.

Tourist visits help provide the tribe with money to make these purchases. Each village (boma) has a few college-educated & English speaking members like Sokoine, who taught us about his culture.

These village trips can feel a little awkward, like everyone is putting on a show. And they are a bit. However it’s one of the only ways the Maasai can earn money while maintaining their traditional lifestyle.

3: Materuni Waterfall

Hiking to Materuni Waterfall

Outside the town of Moshi, along the slopes of Kilimanjaro, there’s a beautiful and imposing 150 meter high waterfall called Materuni located deep in the lush jungle.

Locals lead hikes to this magical place, usually in combination with a coffee tour. The waterfall hike takes about an hour. On the way we saw brightly colored chameleons and butterflies.

You can swim under these powerful falls — however be warned, the water is very cold! I jumped right in though, never one to turn down a refreshing wild-swim. It makes you feel alive!

After returning from Materuni waterfall, we learned how to make coffee from scratch with a group of Chagga boys, one of Tanzania’s largest ethnic groups.

We helped separate the husk from dried beans, roasted them on an open fire, and finally grinding into powder for brewing — all while singing to keep up a good rhythm. Probably the freshest cup of coffee I’ve ever tasted!

4: Kings Of Ngorongoro

Lions in Ngorongoro

One of the best places to see wildlife in Tanzania, aside from the Serengeti, is the Ngorongoro Crater. The crater is the result of a large volcano that exploded and collapsed into itself about two million years ago.

High crater walls protect a large variety of wildlife at the bottom, including a population of 70+ lions. Tanzania is actually home to about one third of the world’s remaining lions.

We got lucky stumbling onto a pride of 8 East African lions hanging out beside the road! We watched them from the top of our Land Rover — lounging in the sun, playing in the grass like big house cats.

Surprisingly a group of antelope was only 200 feet away, but it seemed these lions weren’t hungry. These were only a few of the lions we saw while visiting Tanzania, but were the closest.

5: Elephant Pool Party!

Elephants at the Four Seasons Pool

Because Anna and I were celebrating our honeymoon in Tanzania, we decided to stay in some nicer hotels. The one we were most looking forward to was The Four Seasons Serengeti. Why?

Well, apart from being a luxury safari lodge in the middle of the world’s most famous national park, the complex itself is almost always surrounded by animals!

You’ll see all kinds of wildlife during their game drives, but you might also spot waterbuck, monkeys, antelope, elephants, and even the occasional leopard while walking the property’s elevated walkways.

There’s a popular watering hole right beside the pool, which often attracts large groups of elephants passing by for a drink. Definitely one of the most unique hotel experiences we’ve ever had!

6: Africa’s Miniature Deer

A Cute Pair of Dik Diks

Standing just over a foot tall, the Dik Dik might just be the cutest safari animal you’ll find in Africa — and probably has the funniest name too. These tiny antelope have long noses and big doe-eyes.

They travel in pairs instead of herds, and dik-diks mate for life. The males may have horns, but the females are larger and the ones in control of the relationship.

These guys are super fast! It was fun watching them dart off as our safari vehicle drove by. Dik-diks are generally shy, hiding from others most of the time.

When startled, they take off in a series of zigzag leaps calling “zik-zik”, hence their funny name. They also mark territory using “tears” that come from that black spot in the corner of their eyes.

7: Lake Eyasi Sunset

Sunset over Tanzania’s Lake Eyasi

We spent a night along the shores of Lake Eyasi, a large salt lake in the fertile Great Rift Valley. Staying at Kisima Ngeda Tent Camp, it was possible to hike up to the cliffs overlooking the lake for a nice view of the region.

The landscape around Lake Eyasi feels very different than the hot, dry grasslands we’ve been traveling through up until that point. It’s wet and tropical, with large palm trees full of squawking birds.

Animal life isn’t as dense here, other than birds, but the reason most people visit is to meet with the local Hadza and Datoga tribes, curious to see their ancient hunting and blacksmithing abilities in person.

I climbed up to a high viewpoint in order to watch the sunset over the mostly-dry lake. During the wet season, it can actually get pretty deep and attracts groups of wading hippos cooling off in the salty water.

8: Hunting With The Hadzabe

Hadzabe Village near Lake Eyasi

The Hadza bushmen are one of the last true hunter-gatherer tribes left in the world. About 800 of them live semi-nomadically in the dry woodlands of remote Lake Eyasi — surviving on wild game, berries, and root vegetables.

We got up early one morning to visit a Hadza encampment, learn a little about their culture, and tagged along as they went hunting for small birds and antelope using hand-made bows and poison-tipped arrows.

The story of the Hadza is fascinating but sad. Basically their land has slowly been stripped away from them by commercial agriculture, the government, and wealthy Arab wildlife trophy hunters.

Their traditional way of life, which hadn’t changed much in thousands of years, is under threat. Like the Maasai, some have turned to tourism to support their families with limited other options available. Efforts to settle them in more modern farming communities have largely failed.

9: Dirty, Dirty Hippopotami

Africa’s Most Dangerous Animal

Anna’s favorite African animal is the hippo, so there was no way we were going to miss them on this trip! Luckily she got her fill of these massive dirty water pigs in the Serengeti and at Lake Manyara.

Ok, maybe they aren’t technically pigs. But they do have a habit of belching, snorting, and loudly shooting explosive diarrhea out their backsides… not MY favorite animal.

The hippopotamus is also Africa’s most dangerous animal, if you can believe that. They kill an estimated 500 people every year. They are extremely territorial, and much faster than they look!

I went kayaking with them in South Africa once, and it was a little unnerving to be so close. While it’s fun to watch them play in the water and splatter poo everywhere, you should always stay aware of your surroundings.

10: Leopards Of Tanzania

Baby Leopard Making Faces

The one animal I was most looking forward to seeing in Tanzania on safari was the leopard. Locating them can be a bit tricky sometimes, which is why it’s known as Africa’s most elusive big cat.

Luckily we were traveling through the Serengeti’s Seronera River Valley, one of the best places to find them in the wild. We eventually witnessed four different individuals perched in yellow-barked acacia trees.

However my favorite sighting was at Lake Manyara National Park while driving down one of the bumpy dirt roads. A baby leopard suddenly appeared just on the edge of the brush, about 50 feet away.

The cat briefly hesitated as we approached, then disappeared back into the trees. But not before I snapped the photo above. We continued searching for his mom, but never found her.

11: The Datoga Tribe

Narajah’s Beautiful Jewelry & Tattoos

Also living within the Rift Valley is the Datoga people. Originating from the Ethiopian highlands 3000 years ago, this ancient tribe moved South into what’s now Kenya and Tanzania.

The Datoga are expert blacksmiths — forging arrowheads, bracelets, and knives out of aluminum and brass over open fires. They trade these products with their Hadza neighbors in exchange for meat, honey, and animal hides.

We stopped in to visit with Narajah (pictured above) and learn a little bit more about her family and culture. Narajah is just one of her husband’s 7 wives. Each has her own house for raising their children.

Apparently Narajah’s husband gave her 10 cows as a marriage gift. When she asked Anna how many cows I offered, she wasn’t very impressed to learn all she got was a cat! Apparently I’m cheap…

A common body modification among women in the tribe is the tatooing of circular patterns around the eyes. It helps identify who’s part of a certain family and, to the Datoga ethnic group in general.

12: Magic Baobab Trees

Massive Baobab Tree

Finally! My first Baobab tree. I’d heard of these ancient giants for years, and didn’t even realize any grew in Tanzania. I thought the only place you could find them was Madagascar…

There are actually 8 species of baobab around the world. The largest is Adansonia digitata, which grows up to 30m tall in Tanzania. I think baobabs have to be the most iconic trees in Africa.

The trees vary in size depending on the season, as they can hold up to 100,000 liters of water within their trunks.

Hollowed out trunks of the baobab trees are often used as shelter by Hadza Bushmen, especially when it rains. Some trees can accommodate up to 30 people inside!

13: Angry Blue Monkeys

Blue Monkey Screaming in the Trees

Blue monkeys are not really blue, more of an olive or grey color. They live largely in the forest canopy, eating fruits, figs, insects, leaves, twigs, and flowers.

We came across a group in the trees on the edges of Lake Manyara National Park, calling out to each other. Some families can be composed of up to 40 individuals, mostly female, with one male leader of the group.

Other monkeys we saw on safari in Tanzania include vervet monkeys, baboons, and the black-and-white colobus. Look at those teeth! I wouldn’t want to get too close — even if they do prefer eating fruit.

14: Buffalo VS. Land Rover

Buffalo Encounter at Lake Manyara

I love this shot at Lake Manyara. An old Cape Buffalo stands off against a Land Rover, each waiting for the other to make a move.

Buffalo are very successful in Africa because they aren’t picky eaters. We saw hundreds of them during a week of safari drives through Tanzania. Munching away at the grasses, or rolling around in the mud.

However they can become aggressive towards vehicles, charging them if they feel threatened. They have also been known to gore hunters after being wounded.

Buffalo herds stick together, and when attacked by predators, will sometimes return to save one of their own. They’re not afraid of fighting lions either, or killing lion cubs as a preventative measure!

15: Endangered Black Rhino

Lone Black Rhino in the Distance

The last of the big five animals we wanted to see in Tanzania was found in Ngorongoro Crater. The black rhinoceros is critically endangered, with only about 5500 left in the world.

Ngorongoro is home to about 26 of them, and because they are on top of everyone’s list to see, safari guides coordinate with each other over radio for news of recent sightings.

While we weren’t able to get very close (vehicles in the crater aren’t allowed to drive off-road), we did manage to spot a single rhino walking in the distance.

The poaching of these animals for their horns is still a problem, however it’s been reduced over the past few years due to improved conservation efforts & security.

Tanzania Safari Travel Tips

The safari tour we booked was through Soul Of Tanzania. We had an amazing time! Their jeeps are very comfortable with big windows, wifi, and plugs to charge your electronics.

Our guide Huruma was very friendly, knowledgeable, stopped frequently for photos, and was plenty cautious with the animals.

WHEN TO GO – Tanzania’s primary rainy season is during March, April and May. The famous Great Migration happens during the dry season, between July and early October. We were there in December, during the “mini” wet season. No matter when you go, you’ll see tons of animals.

COSTS – Going on safari in Tanzania isn’t cheap, however there are options for different budgets. National Park fees alone can cost $70 a day. While self-driving is technically possible, it’s incredibly complex to arrange, and often just as expensive as a tour.

BUGS – Beware the Tsetse flies, they suck! Literally. These painful and annoying flies are attracted to dark colors – especially blue and black. This is the reason everyone on safari wears white or tan clothing!

PHOTOGRAPHY – If there’s one place where you’ll want to splurge on a zoom camera lens, it’s on safari in Africa. I’d recommend something at least 200mm, but 400mm is even better. I rented a huge 400mm lens from LensRentals.com (and highly recommend them). ★

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Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip.

Book Your Flight

Ready to fly? Here’s how I find the cheapest airline flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.

Cheap Accommodation

Learn how I save money booking hotels & vacation apartments.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Lofoten Islands Winter Photography Road Trip

Lofoten, Norway

Norway’s remote Lofoten Islands provide the perfect setting for incredible photography opportunities, with soft winter light and majestic mountain landscapes rising from the sea.

The Lofoten Islands are located above the arctic circle in Northwest Norway. Made up of deep fjords, craggy peaks, sandy beaches, and cute red fishing cabins, the islands are a wonderful location for landscape photography.

Especially in February, with the pleasing effects of low winter light.

I rented a car and spent 10 days driving around the Lofoten Islands with my camera, hunting the Northern lights, tracking down hidden beaches, and hiking through deep snow to capture inspiring images of this amazing section of Norwegian wilderness.

With very little daylight and seemingly endless sunrises & sunsets, winter in Lofoten is the perfect time to visit for photography. Frequent aurora sightings and white snow-capped peaks are just icing on the cake.

Below you’ll find travel photography from my adventures in Norway’s Lofoten Islands, along with a short video I produced along the way.

I hope my Lofoten Island photography inspires you to visit for yourself!

Eliassen Rorbuer Cabins on Hamnoy

Hamnøy Island

This is probably the most iconic photography location in Lofoten. Hamnoy is a small island and village near the spectacular fjord of Reinefjord, just outside the town of Reine. Red wooden cabins hug a rocky coastline, with huge mountains rising from the background. I actually stayed in these cabins too! They are called Eliassen Rorbuer. This shot was taken from a nearby bridge after a fresh layer of morning snow covered the landscape.

Nusfjord Mountain Pass

Lofoten Road Trip

The Lofoten Islands are connected by a series of bridges and tunnels along a main road called the E10. Splintering off it are many side roads for you to explore. Like this one, Route FV807, which winds through an impressive mountain pass on the way to the fishing village of Nusfjord. Winter driving in Lofoten can be tricky, with snowy roads and quickly changing weather conditions. All rental cars come equipped with studded snow tires.

Northern Lights in Lofoten

Northern Lights

One of the biggest reasons to visit Lofoten in the winter for photography is the magical northern lights which occur between September – March. With its extreme northern latitude and long nights, conditions are good for nature’s amazing light show. However catching a glimpse of the lights is not certain. Clear skies and strong aurora activity are needed. I lucked out with two decent nights of northern lights while traveling around Lofoten.

Fishing Community

Norwegian Fishing Boats

Fishing has been a fixture in the Lofoten Islands for over 1000 years. The unusually warm waters lure millions of arctic cod to spawn here between February – April. Most of the population is involved in the cod fishing business in some capacity. Every morning I watched fishing boats heading out to work, or men hanging the “stockfish” on wooden racks to dry in the open air.

Sakrisoy Rorbuer Cabins

Sakrisoy Rorbuer

More renovated fishing cabins in Lofoten that you can stay in, these yellow wooden buildings are part of Sakrisoy Rorbuer. I was shocked at just how many of these landscapes look fake, like they were created specifically for perfect postcard photos. Here the snowy Lofotenveggen Mountains tower behind the small yellow cabins, a shallow crystal blue bay in front. It’s a colorful mosaic which continually changes with the passing of the seasons.

Snow Covered Beaches

Rambergstranda Beach

The rusty red color is achieved with paint mixed with cod liver oil. Plenty of that around these parts! When it’s not so snowbound, this is a landscape of waving grass and sky-blue water, and temperatures hit 20 degrees C, but on days like this, everything’s locked down with the cold and if you’re taking photos, you’d better have your gloves handy. Checkout my Survival Guide in Cold Weather for more info.

Surfing in the Arctic

Arctic Surfing Unstad

Because it’s on the Gulf Stream, Lofoten’s climate is relatively mild despite its latitude above the Arctic Circle, plus the insulating properties of modern wetsuits are astonishing. (If you’re in the water and you’re feeling cold, you’re doing it wrong.) These waters attract surfers of all skill levels from around the globe – and I decided to jump in and give it a try with the guys at Unstad Arctic Surfing. What a crazy experience!

Giant Coastal Mountains

Lofoten Mountains

Stand on the beach anywhere in the Lofoten Islands, and most of the landscape towers above you, up to a thousand meters above sea level. Inhabitable land is the exception, not the rule – and only possible on infrequent strips of terrain between the sea and the colossal mountains that form the bulk of the island chain. In places, the mountains rise near-vertically from the sea. It’s a stunning backdrop for everything you do there.

Kvalvika Beach Photography

Hiking Kvalvika Beach

This beach, in a remote corner of Moskenesøya, is only accessible on foot – park your car, take the easy trail over a nearby pass between the mountains, and after an hour you’re in one of the most beautiful places in the whole archipelago. During warmer months, Kvalvika Beach a great place to camp, complete with driftwood and a mountain stream – but even when the snow lays thick, it’s well worth a visit. Just expect the hike to take a bit longer.

The Village of Å

Å, Norway

No, it’s not a misprint – it’s a one-letter word pronounced “Aw” that in Old Norse means “small river.” This tiny but popular village is at the southern tip of the Lofoten peninsula, and people come from miles around to have their photo taken next to the town sign – and, occasionally, to steal the sign, a constant irritation for the town’s 150 residents.

Hiking Ryten Mountain

Ryten Mountain Lookout

It may look forbidding, but Ryten (543m) is a surprisingly easy mountain to climb, thanks to low, steadily rising slopes – just give yourself three or four hours to do it. And if you’re visiting Lofoten, you absolutely should do it. The view from Ryten is unparalleled, giving you a view of Kvalvika Beach and the surrounding mountains that will punch the breath right out of you. More care must be taken in the winter when crampons & ice axe are recommended.

Beautiful Lofoten Sunsets

Endless Sunsets

Lofoten is north of the Arctic Circle – and that means a lot of things. It means the Polar Night, where the sun spends a full day below the horizon. It means the Midnight Sun, where the sun stays up for more than 24 hours. It means spectacular variation in day length, contracting or lengthening an hour every week between these two extremes. And best of all, it means incredible sunrises and sunsets that last for hours (yes, hours), turning the land and sea every color imaginable. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Stockfish Hanging to Dry

Lofoten Stockfish

The tradition of drying unsalted fish (mainly cod) on huge wooden racks goes back at least a thousand years, and it’s still a big part of the Lofoten economy – and a spectacular sight, when the racks are full. If you want to understand the history of this ancient practice, head to Å’s comprehensive stockfish museum. Depending on how fresh the fish are, you may be in for a smelly surprise if you get to close to them!

Connected by Bridges

Fredvang Bridges

Opened in 1988, these sinuous structures connect the fishing village of Fredvang with its craggy neighbor, Flakstadøya by road. They perfectly match the curves of the surrounding lowland islands – and the effect is a little eerie, as if you’re getting a peek at what’s underneath all the islands if you stripped all the rock and earth away. Driving across is fun, there are pull-overs every few hundred meters because the bridges aren’t wide enough for two lanes.

Old Fishing Cabins

Rorbuer Cabins

The signature architecture of the Lofoten islands, rorbuer (singular rorbu) are well-suited to their environment. These tough wooden huts were originally built to protect fishermen as they assembled the year’s stockfish catch. These days, many have been converted (or rebuilt from scratch) into beautiful, primary-colored tourist accommodation – they can be a bit pricey, so it pays to do your homework about what’s available.

Lofoten Islands Photography

If you are looking for spectacular nature, deep silence, northern lights, diverse adventures, wild weather, breathtaking sea and mountain views, you can’t do much better than visiting Norway’s Lofoten Islands in the winter to capture some amazing travel photography. ★

Where to stay in Lofoten Islands?

If you’re wondering where to stay on Lofoten here is my recommendation:

Budget

Eliassen Rorbuer – Cute red cabins. One of the most photogenic places I’ve ever stayed in.

Check prices on: Booking.com | HotelsCombined | Agoda

Watch Video: Lofoten Islands Road Trip

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Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Norway
Suggested Reading: Lofoten Islands Photography Guides
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Have any questions about traveling to the Lofoten Islands? Are you planning a trip? Let me know in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Nakhon Chai Si, Thailand

Hordes of screaming men possessed by their magic Sak Yant tattoos run wildly towards a shrine, crashing into the human shield of soldiers protecting it. Welcome to Thailand’s bizarre Wai Kru Festival.

Sak Yants are traditional Thai tattoos etched into the skin by Buddhist monks for protection & luck, blessed with magic powers. Often applied by hand using a long metal or bamboo rod with a needle attached to the end, dipped in special ink made from ingredients like charcoal & snake venom.

However the supernatural power of these tattoos wears off over time, requiring them to be re-blessed and recharged. This is the purpose of the Wai Kru festival, paying respect to the teacher, and infusing new magic into thousands of Sak Yants at once.

The result can only be described as absolute mayhem.

Traditional Sak Yant

The evening before Wai Kru, a group of Ajarns (tattoo masters) and Buddhist monks gather at the temple to apply 1000 fresh tattoos on those who want them, working long into the night. I received my own Sak Yant a few years ago right here at Wat Bang Phra, so returning for this tattoo festival was special for me. After 2 years it was time to recharge the magic of mine.

The Sak Yant was originally used by warriors seeking protection and strength in battle. Often covering their entire bodies from head to toe in magic symbols to prevent knives and arrows from piecing their skin. These days Thai people from all walks of life get them — doctors, lawyers, taxi drivers, prostitutes, actors, and mafia criminals.

Possessed By Tattoos

Thousands of devoted have gathered to renew the powers of their tattoos at the Wai Kru, and for some, the power overcomes them. Sitting cross-legged under the hot sun they enter a trance called Khong Khuen and become their tattoos — the Tiger, Crocodile, Old Man, or Hanuman the Hindu monkey god.

The Old Man slowly ambles up through the crowd hunched over with an invisible cane while laughing maniacally. Hanuman the monkey god leaps up screaming, sprinting full-speed towards a statue of their former master Luan Por Phern, tripping over others on the way. A wall of soldiers & paramedics stops them from reaching the shrine, pulling them out of the trance by rubbing their ears.

Wai Kru Festival

At first the trance only afflicts a handful of people, but as the morning progresses, the energy builds. Eventually hundreds of people are running for the shrine in total chaos, arms flailing wildly, crashing into onlookers with clouds of dust in the 90 degree heat. Monks then lead the crowd in prayer, recharging the magic powers of everyone’s Sak Yant tattoos.

I spot Master Luang Pi Nunn among them, the monk who tattooed a Gao Yord design on my back. Even during prayer, a few more possessed jump up and sprint for the shrine. However once the incantations have been recited, the ceremony ends and a crowd of 10,000 pushes up to the front while monks spray everyone with holy water. This was probably the scariest part of the whole morning, as you have no control of your own movement. It’s a suffocating sea of bodies, and you’re forced to flow with the tide.

Sak Yant Tattoo Magic

While I didn’t end up in a trance by participating in the ceremony, the adrenaline kick I received from standing in the middle of this mayhem was powerful. Attempting to dodge Monkeys, Tigers, and Crocodiles flying by in all directions certainly keeps you on your toes.

This sacred Wai Kru tattoo ceremony at Wat Bang Phra has recharged the magic of my own traditional ink, and I look forward to the renewed luck & protection that comes with it. ★

Watch Video: Sak Yant Tattoo Festival

(Click to watch Sak Yant Tattoo Festival on YouTube)

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Location: Nakhon Chai Si, Thailand

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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Have any tattoos? Would you consider a Sak Yant?

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Iceland Photography

These are my favorite Iceland photography locations from one of the most beautiful countries ever. A mysterious land of icy glaciers, fiery volcanoes, and endless waterfalls.

I’ve traveled to Iceland a few times now, spending months exploring the country capturing epic landscape photography with my camera.

Iceland impressed me so much that I constantly want to return!

How many photography locations around the world can you experience crawling into blue glacial ice caves, flying over an erupting volcano, AND stay up all night transfixed by the Earth’s magical northern lights?

My experience in Iceland was overwhelming and almost spiritual — reminding me why I started traveling in the first place. For such a small nation, Iceland is absolutely packed with beauty and diversity.

Vast, dramatic landscapes stretch out for miles, sprinkled with a handful of old farmhouses and fishing villages. There’s a lot of strange stuff too!

It’s seriously a travel photographer paradise.

Below you’ll find some of my top Iceland photography locations, and I hope these images inspire you to visit this wonderful country on your own!

Iceland’s Top Photography Locations

Hallgrímskirkja Church

Most of Iceland’s population is concentrated around the capital city of Reykjavík. The city has a vibrant art & music scene. But what stood out the most was this strange Viking-looking church called Hallgrímskirkja.

Hallgrímskirkja Church is a very cool photography location in Iceland, towering over Reykjavík as the tallest church in the country. The church was constructed with Iceland’s rugged landscapes in mind. Make sure to take the elevator to the top for some very cool views over the city!

Kerlingarfjöll Geothermal Area

Iceland’s Blue Lagoon

This man-made geothermal pool in South West Iceland is the country’s most popular tourist attraction. I spent an afternoon with Kiersten from The Blonde Abroad soaking in the Blue Lagoon’s milky blue water full of silica & minerals.

The warm water & white mud is supposed to be good for your skin. It’s also a great place for photography! Get there first thing in the morning, or late in the evening to avoid the largest crowds.

The Ring Road

Iceland’s Ring Road is a driving route that encircles the entire country, covering over 800 miles. While you could technically drive it in less than 24 hours, the reality takes at least a week with stops on along the way.

The photography opportunities on Route 1 are unbelievable, and you’ll find yourself constantly pulling over for photos. I gave myself 7 full days to drive the Ring Road. Many of the photos here were taken during that trip!

Thorsmork “Thor’s Valley”

Eldraun Lava Field

In some areas of Iceland, ancient lava fields of black rock are covered with a thick green carpet of moss. This special volcanic moss takes hundreds of years to grow, and experts can determine how old a lava flow is by how thick the moss is.

Icelandic legends say that trolls & elves live under the moss. Sounds reasonable to me! Walking through this crazy landscape feels like walking through a Dr. Seuss book. One of the best areas to see the moss is called Eldraun Lava Field, on the South Coast between Vik & Hoff.

While photographing the fields of moss is a lot of fun, DO NOT walk on the moss. Once it’s destroyed by footprints, it does not grow back.

READ MORE: Inspiring Travel Quotes With Photos

Glacier Ice Caves

Wow. That’s all I can say about Iceland’s stunning blue ice caves. If you’re traveling to Iceland for photography, you can’t miss these. Meltwater flows under Vatnajökull glacier creating these insane natural caves, with sunlight filtering through the ice from above giving them a blue tint.

The crystal caves collapse or move every season, and can be difficult to reach, so you need an experienced guide. They are only safe to visit in the winter.

Holuhraun Volcano

On August 29th, 2014 a volcanic eruption broke through the surface at Holuhraun lava field in the Northern Highlands of Iceland. It’s been spewing rivers of hot lava ever since with no signs of stopping.

Driving to the eruption site is currently not allowed for safety reasons (possible flash floods & toxic gas), however, you can fly over it. Helicopter flights are expensive, but if you fly in a small plane like I did, it’s pretty reasonable.

Strokkur Geyser

Did you know that the general term geyser is named after a particular geothermal fountain in Iceland? Strokkur Geyser erupts every 5-10 minutes near the Hvítá River, one of many stops on our day-long road trip around the Golden Circle.

We rented a cheap car and drove the Golden Circle under blue skies, rain, and a snowstorm! Iceland’s weather changes quickly. There are many great Iceland photography locations along this popular route that starts in Reykjavik.

Sólheimasandur Plane Crash

Skógafoss Waterfall

Mix ice mountains with summer days as warm as 20–25 °C (68–77 °F) – and Iceland starts to roar. Its waterfalls are world-famous, and best photographed under the light of the midnight sun. Here, Skógafoss Waterfall (one of the biggest in the country) shows off its standing rainbow, which becomes visible anytime the sun is shining.

Legend has it that there’s Viking treasure behind that curtain of water – and more recently, the God of Thunder himself made an appearance here for scenes in Thor: The Dark World.

Tiny Iceland Elf Houses?

If you come to Iceland, be prepared to take the topic of huldufolk (hidden folk) as seriously as the locals do. As The Atlantic reported a few years back, it’s often very serious indeed.

In 1998, over half of Iceland’s residents said they believed in the existence of wee folk – and the sanctity of their alleged homes sometimes influences decisions when planning permission for construction work. In Iceland, elves are just another part of daily life. Act accordingly!

Fuzzy Icelandic Horses!

The small but sturdy horses in Iceland may look like ponies, but don’t call them that in front of a local! Iceland’s horses have a long and proud history dating back to the 9th century.

Breeding & natural selection has made them super tough, able to withstand long & brutal winters completely outside with the help of thick fur. You’ll find the horses on many farms throughout Iceland — they are very friendly too!

Backcountry Mountain Huts

You’ll find these dotted around the country, providing a startling splash of primary color on pristine hillsides. They also come stocked with blankets, dried food, and medical supplies.

Most were built by Icelandic volunteer search and rescue organizations early last century, and their usefulness has diminished – but tell that to someone stumbling upon one after trekking through a blizzard for hours. If you decide to look inside, be sure to close all the doors and windows again – it could be months before anyone else stops by, and they can save lives.

Vatnajökull Glacier

Nearly a sixth of Iceland is covered in vast, breathtaking glaciers. Unsurprisingly, you’ll find most of them in the country’s south and central highland regions. They’re such an important feature of the landscape that even the side-rivers of these frozen rivers have their own names.

For example, Svínafellsjökull is a tongue of shattered ice extending from the mouth of the Vatnajökull ice-cap. And yes, it really is that color, especially vibrant with cloudy skies!

Remote Eastern Iceland

When Icelanders describe a place as “remote”, you should pay attention. The eastern coastline of Iceland is an area of savage-looking mountains under vast, cold skies, and signs of habitation are confined to the occasional beautiful but tough-looking fishing village.

It’s also a hiker’s paradise – and if you want to get away from the approximately 1.7 million visitors hitting Iceland’s shores every year, the eastern coast is the place to do it.

Jökulsárlón Iceberg Lagoon

At the bottom of the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier sits a large glacier lake called Jokulsarlon lagoon, created by melting ice from above. It’s full of blue-tinted icebergs that have broken off the base of the glacier.

Some of the ice collects on black sand shores the lake, other pieces float out to sea through a channel nearby. Located on Iceland’s south coast, Jökulsárlón is a wonderful spot for photography.

Cool Icelandic Art Murals

In Iceland, everyone is creative. Don’t raise an eyebrow if someone describes themselves as a writer, composer, sculptor, painter, designer and actor – because it’s probably true. You can see the effects of this deep-frozen Renaissance all over the landscape, particularly in depictions of the Icelandic sagas, semi-mythical stories dating back to the 13th & 14th century.

Silfra Tectonic Fissure

The North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are breaking Iceland apart at Silfra, creating a fissure flooded with crystal clear 35°F degree glacial water. Ice from nearby Lángjökull Glacier melts and travels into an ancient lava field, filtering underground through porous volcanic rock over 50 years before it emerges where you can go snorkeling or scuba diving in it for a very unique (but cold) experience.

Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights)

Shooting the northern lights was the highlight of my many Iceland photography trips. The best time to see the lights is in the fall & winter when it gets dark early and stays that way.

On one particularly spectacular evening at Sólheimasandur Beach I captured the aurora dancing above the famous abandoned US Navy plane. On another, I awoke from my tent in Thorsmork and witnessed them splash across the valley.

Where To Stay In Iceland

While obviously there are many towns in Iceland, most people base themselves in the city of Reykjavik at least for a few days. If you’re looking for a good place to stay in Iceland, here are my recommendations:

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WHERE TO STAY IN REYKJAVIK

Luxury

Kvosin Downtown Hotel

Midrange

Rey Apartments

Budget

Loft Hostel

WHERE TO STAY ON THE GOLDEN CIRCLE

Luxury

Frost & Fire Hotel

Midrange

Hótel Eldhestar

Budget

Selfoss Hostel

WHERE TO STAY ON SOUTH COAST

Luxury

Hótel Kría

Midrange

The Barn

Budget

Puffin Hostel

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Travel Planning Resources For Iceland

Packing Guide Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Book Your Flight Ready to fly? Here’s how I find the cheapest airline flights. Rent A Car Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal. Cheap Accommodation Learn how I save money booking hotels & vacation apartments. Protect Your Trip Don’t forget travel insurance! Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read why you should always carry travel insurance.

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READ MORE ICELAND TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide to Iceland photography locations! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

• Check out my ultimate Iceland Ring Road itinerary to learn about all the top highlights along the way.
• Planning a trip to Iceland, but not sure when to go? Here’s the best time to visit Iceland organized by seasons.
• If you only have a few days, a better option is to drive Iceland’s Golden Circle as a day trip instead.
• Learn how to properly photograph the amazing Northern Lights during your adventure.
• Organizing an Iceland road trip, but afraid of driving? Here’s everything you should know about driving in Iceland.
• Want to improve your photos? Read my best travel photography tipsand guide to picking a travel camera.

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Have any questions about Iceland photography? Are you planning a trip soon? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Ayder, Turkey

Join me for an epic trekking adventure into the beautiful Kackar Mountains in Eastern Turkey where raw wilderness and ancient lifestyles leave lasting memories.

The Kaçkar Mountains are located in northeastern Turkey, not far from the Black Sea. The highest peaks reach an altitude of 3,937 meters (12,917 feet).

Hiking in these mountains is quite a treat, as they aren’t quite as popular as other mountain destinations like the Italian Alps, so there are far fewer tourists.

However they aren’t completely “wild” either, meaning there is some infrastructure in place for day hikers and overnight trekking.

The Kackar Mountains are interspersed with yaylas, or rural mountain villages inhabited by nomadic herders who bring livestock to graze in the high pastures during summer months.

Kackar Mountains Hiking Guide

Getting To The Kackar Mountains

To reach the Kackar Mountains, I flew into the Turkish city of Trabzon. After stocking up on some basic hiking supplies in Trabzon — like cooking gas and backpacking food — I hired a minibus taxi (called a dolmuş) to take me to the pretty mountain resort village of Ayder.

There is a mountain road that continues past Ayder to another village called Yakari Kavrun. You can walk this road, or hitchhike, like I did. The road mostly follows the swollen Kavron River rushing with fresh snow melt.

There were some other yaylas along the way, however many were abandoned, and a few showed signs of life as locals began returning with their animals.

While Ayder was bustling in June, Yukari Kavrun was still mostly closed. It was too early in the season. The actual mountain trail into the Kackars started above the village in Yukari Kavrun.

The people living in the Kackar Mountains come from all over. Their ancestors were originally from Armenia, Greece, Georgia, Russia, even Uzbekistan. They make a living herding cows and sheep; producing delicious cheese, yogurt, and some of the best honey in the world!

Encountering Dangerous Weather

Not long after I started my hike, I stopped briefly for lunch on a hill surrounded by colorful orange, yellow, and purple wildflowers. A jagged wall of snow-capped peaks loomed ahead as I hiked on.

Weather can change quickly in the Kackar Mountains, and it happened to me. The blue-bird day was soon consumed by a blanket of dark clouds rumbling with lightning and thunder. Then came the hail!

I was forced to retreat into a valley and find cover as lightning repeatedly struck the exposed ridge in front of me. Hastily constructing an emergency shelter using a rain tarp and crawling under just as the worst weather hit.

CRACK! BOOOOOM! It was the loudest thunder I’ve ever experienced, practically shaking the mountain beneath me. Soon followed by blinding flashes of lightning.

I love crazy weather, but this was pretty scary. Hail hammered down from the heavens — closer than usual here at 8,000 feet.

Alpine Lakes & Backcountry Camping

The bad weather passed almost as quickly as it arrived though. I emerged from my shelter to begin hiking again, searching for a decent camping spot.

Stopping to set up camp and prepare hot tea beside a deep blue alpine pond as the sun dropped below the horizon.

What kind of shelter was I packing? A hammock of course! But at these altitudes there are no trees… only rocks. However you’d be surprised at just how versatile a camping hammock can be. A set of rock climbing nuts, a large trash bag, and a foam pad turns a hammock into a traditional bivy sack for sleeping on the ground.

The temperature dropped and I gazed at the stars in total silence for a while, drinking some olive oil and doing pushups to build up some body heat before climbing into my sleeping bag for the night.

The next morning was cold and sunny. I scarfed down some bread, honey, and trail mix for breakfast before heading back out on the trail.

Walking down into a valley through snow towards another mountain lake. The sunlight didn’t last long though, and dark clouds soon moved in for a 2nd day, threatening to delay me again.

Lush Green Valleys

I managed to hike up and over the pass after taking shelter under a rock for an hour as another hail & lightning storm floated by.

The trail here is almost completely hidden from view under a layer of snow, which usually sticks around until mid July in the Kackar Mountains.

There were a few tricky sections where the snow was deep, but I made it down into the next valley after about 6 hours of hiking — and what a beautiful place it was!

The area is called Dupeduzu, a popular camping spot in these mountains. Fields of blinding white snow morphed into lush green grass covered with vibrant wildflowers.

The soundtrack to this paradise? Gushing rivers winding down from the steep mountains above.

After camping out for a 3rd day in the mountains, I hiked down to lower altitudes in order to stock up on food. Luckily there are many yaylas not far away where it’s possible to buy basic supplies like bread, cheese, trail mix, canned tuna, olives, and beans.

Because it was still early in the season, some villages are sparsely populated or completely abandoned. It took me a few hours to reach one of the larger villages called Olgunlar.

They have a few small guesthouses here, and an early morning dolmusch (public taxi) that will take you out of the mountains on a dirt road.

Kackar Mountain Wilderness

Once stocked up for another 2 days of trekking, I left Olgunlar on foot to begin climbing towards my ultimate goal, a stunning high mountain lake called Deniz Golu, and maybe a summit attempt on Mount Kackar itself, depending on hiking conditions.

On the way I encountered more streams to cross, local Muslim shepherds leading their sheep and cattle out to the freshest grazing pastures, and plenty of butterflies. The same reason this area produces the best honey is also why there are so many species of butterfly around…

The Kackar Mountains have an incredible amount of diversity when it comes to wildflowers!

I pitched my hammock/bivy beside a large boulder at the Dilberduzu camping area, where there’s actually an outhouse due to the large number of local hikers who pass through for summer mountaineering adventures. I finally ran into a few other hikers here too.

On the morning of my 4th day I rose with the sun to climb as high as I could into the Kackar Mountains. It didn’t take long to reach snow, and a majority of my hike was spent on it. Not fully equipped to trek in these conditions, I was using small garbage bags to line the inside of my shoes — a type of poor-man’s GoreTex.

While your footwear gets soaked on the outside, your feet themselves stay pretty dry. Most of the snow was well compacted by this point anyway, so I only sank down to my ankles.

Extreme Sledding Adventure

The effects of altitude hiking at 10,000 feet was taking its toll — catching my breath was a bit more difficult and slowing me down. But after about 2-3 hours of scrambling up over rocks, I made it to lake Deniz Golu, which unfortunately was still frozen over!

Too bad, as I’d previously seen photos of the lake, and it’s a spectacular shade of blue.

I hiked further up to 11,000 feet searching for a high vantage point for capturing photos of the amazing landscape around me. Mount Kackar itself was covered in a thick layer of clouds & fog, and with no discernible trail in the snow, it wasn’t safe for me to continue on my own. Especially without proper gear.

So what is the quickest way to descend a snow-covered mountain? Extreme sledding of course!

I used my sleeping-mat as a makeshift sled, and it was super fun.

While walking out of the Kackar Mountins I discovered a group of local women preparing a picnic in the grass next to an abandoned yayla. They waved me over and insisted I join them. Tasty homemade food and boiling hot tea was just what I needed after 4 days in the wilderness…

Our language barrier was high, only knowing about 5 words in each other’s native tongue. But with lots of smiles and hand gestures, we had some awkward yet amusing conversation.

I thanked them and walked on to Olgunlar, checking into a guesthouse and catching an early morning taxi out. ★

Where To Stay In Rize

So, the area I was hiking is located in the Rize District of Turkey. I stayed in two different guest houses before and after my hike.

Gokkusagi Apart in the village of Ayder and Kackar Pansiyon in the village of Olgunlar. They are very basic mountain resorts, that feel a lot like hostels. They offer private rooms, or shared bunk rooms.

Kackar Hiking Guidebook

Looking to plan your own hike? Check out “The Kackar: Trekking in Turkey’s Black Sea Mountains” by Kate Clow.

Buy The Book Here

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Young Rapper Shows Off His Skills

Johannesburg, South Africa

Once home to Nelson Mandela, Soweto Township is a fascinating urban settlement on the outskirts of Johannesburg with much history and culture.

Last month I spent an afternoon visiting Orlando township in the Soweto district of Jozi. To help celebrate Nelson Mandela Day, here are some photos of the people and art you can find in his old neighborhood.

Orlando was once a hotspot for anti-apartheid demonstrations in the 1970’s and 80’s. The Soweto Uprising and subsequent police shootouts against protesters spread the movement across the country, helping to pave the way for a new unified South Africa.

Nelson Mandela lived in Soweto for many years before his 27 year imprisonment on Robben Island, and Archbishop Desmond Tutu also lived in the neighborhood. That’s two Nobel Prize laureates who called this area home!

Mandela’s old house on Vilakazi Street is now a popular museum.

Soweto itself is huge, with a population of over 1.3 million. It initially sprang up during the Witwatersrand Gold Rush to house black mine workers who were forbidden from living in the city center due to South Africa’s strict segregation policies at the time.

Nelson Mandela Mural

Busy Intersection in Soweto

“Pretty” Waits for Her Bus

Colorful Orlando Cooling Towers

Street-side Barber Shop

Convenience Store in Soweto

Kids Playing Outside

Elephant Street Art

“Simba The Lion” and His Awesome Hair

Have you ever been surprised with local hospitality when traveling? Do you have questions? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

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Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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Disclaimer: My trip was made possible in partnership with iAmbassador and South Africa Tourism.

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Sorina from Romania prepares dinner

Granada, Spain

There is a fascinating community of people living in Spain who make their homes out of abandoned caves. Join me on a photo tour through Sacromonte’s gypsy neighborhood.

In the hills above the beautiful Spanish city of Granada lies the Roma/Gitano/Gypsy cave community of Sacromonte. After the fall of the Moorish empire in the 1500’s, the Roma arrived and carved cave homes into the hillside. These days much of Sacromonte has become a tourist spot.

Visitors flock here to watch the famous Gitano Flamenco dancing shows.

But if you hike above the visible neighborhood of Sacromonte, you’ll discover a slightly different community made up of nomads, hippies, and modern gypsies who now live in the previously abandoned caves. There are about 30-40 who live here full-time, with many others passing through, staying for a few months before moving on.

It’s an eclectic mix of people from all over the world.

Most of the caves have electricity, either from solar panels or grid power wired in from outside. Some have TVs. Running water and outhouse-style toilets are often shared between a few neighbors.

I spent a couple days hanging out, taking photos of and learning about the community. Even spending one night in a cave. Please enjoy this rare glimpse into the life of a wandering cave gypsy.

A colorful gypsy cave home

Luis is from the Canary Islands

The hills above Granada are covered in caves

Cave kitchen with electricity and appliances!

Anais from Germany is just passing through

Who Are The Gypsies?

Ok, due to the increased popularity of this post combined with random commenters claiming I don’t know what a Gypsy is, I’ve decided to go into more detail here. The neighborhood of Sacromonte in the city of Granada is a Gypsy neighborhood. Gypsy with a capital “G”.

These are people from Romani or Gitano decent. The english word “Gypsy” comes from “Egyptian,” based on a false believe they came from Egypt (they came from Northern India).

The caves above Sacromonte were originally inhabited by these people (Gypsy/Roma/Gitano).

Now, the caves are being used by modern gypsies (with a lowercase G). As in free-spirited travelers, hippies, and foreign refugees.

The neighborhood of Sacromonte and the old caves above it are two separate things. However there are also cave homes within Sacromonte owned by actual Gitanos/Roma/Gypsies. I think this is where some of the confusion comes from.

The people in my photos here are not Gitanos/Roma.

The best views of Granada & Alhambra Palace

Tania from Spain and her dog Wanda help plant a garden

The view from inside a cave

Ella is one of many cave gypsies from Senegal

This cave has a solar panel above the door

Irit moved from New York City into a gypsy cave

Some of the gypsies own horses and ponies

Iwan from Romania studied film in college

Saved the best for last: overflowing outdoor community toilet!

Would you be able to live like this? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.